Piper184

No, it should not take 3 battery charges to get it to start. Don’t pay any attention to someone that gives that advice.

3 years is a very long time to sit with no fuel in the system. There may or may not be internal rust damage, but let’s skip over that for the moment.

The most common problem when you run out of fuel is air in the system that creates a blockage. As the injector pump tries to pressurize the fuel the air just compresses down and then pushes back when the pressure is released between strokes so the system just never gets full of fuel. Kind of like vapor lock on old cars with carbs. You need to find a way to let the air out.

Usually this is accomplished by loosening the line nut where it connects to the injector. Be sure to use two wrenches (line wrenches if you have them) when doing this so you don’t bend something. The nut only needs to be loose enough to let it leak at that fitting. Just break torque and maybe a half turn after that.

I would crack all of the injector nuts loose at the same time. Then crank the engine over for 5 or 10 seconds and watch for drips of fuel or bubbles. If you have a decompression lever, use that to let the starter spin faster.

Once you get solid fuel drips with no bubbles at an injector you can go ahead and tighten that one down. Keep going until you have fuel flowing at all of them.

There is a possibility that the injectors are stuck. We can cross that bridge if we need to.

Give this a try and let us know what happens. Post pictures of your pump and injectors if possible.

Good luck!

That is interesting. Thanks for posting.

The info I had indicated it was a one for one wire replacement.

I put a solenoid in my glow plug circuit years ago to take the strain off of the contacts in the key switch.

Glad you got it working.

Hi Dave,

No experience with the Ford switch but have saved the number just in case. My Jinma switch is working just fine after 14 years (I know I just jinxed it!)

I would suggest trying to spray some circuit cleaner into the switch. Likely just a little dirty inside. Could be the switch itself or just the key tumblers that are gummed up.

That is quite a challenge.

What type of surface will you be driving on? Traction and stopping ability are very important.

Conditions of the brakes is equally important. Most tractors don’t have very good brakes to start with, and many are not adjusted properly.

Rigging the load is very important. Taking the bucket off will indeed increase your lifting capacity. However the load will be closer to the front of the tractor so you have to take that into consideration. As the lift arms go up the load will get even closer. The load needs to be rigged so that it won’t spin. Helpers with guide ropes would be a huge advantage.

I would go down the hill backwards with the backhoe live and the bucket kept just a couple of inches above the ground. I would also probably run the outriggers down that far too. (think training wheels on a bike) Keep the load as low as possible at all times when the tractor is in motion. If it can only go an inch or two there is a lot less chance of bad things happening and you can quickly get it down if something does go wrong.

Use the lowest gear you have, speed is not your friend. At all times be ready to dump the load to the ground as fast as possible.

Don’t forget to air up the tires too.

If the load turns out to be too much for your tractor you might consider fixing up some kind of a skid where you only need to pick up one end and drag the other end.

Have you primed the fuel system using the hand pump?

If you can confirm fuel flow from the hand pump, through the screw on filter and into the injection pump, the next step would be to loosen the hard fuel lines at each injector and crank to see if you have fuel coming out.

Dave is right, they put filters in weird places on these tractors. I would start at the tank and work through the system until you find the place where the flow stops.

Let us know more details as you work through the system.