Piper184

That is quite a challenge.

What type of surface will you be driving on? Traction and stopping ability are very important.

Conditions of the brakes is equally important. Most tractors don’t have very good brakes to start with, and many are not adjusted properly.

Rigging the load is very important. Taking the bucket off will indeed increase your lifting capacity. However the load will be closer to the front of the tractor so you have to take that into consideration. As the lift arms go up the load will get even closer. The load needs to be rigged so that it won’t spin. Helpers with guide ropes would be a huge advantage.

I would go down the hill backwards with the backhoe live and the bucket kept just a couple of inches above the ground. I would also probably run the outriggers down that far too. (think training wheels on a bike) Keep the load as low as possible at all times when the tractor is in motion. If it can only go an inch or two there is a lot less chance of bad things happening and you can quickly get it down if something does go wrong.

Use the lowest gear you have, speed is not your friend. At all times be ready to dump the load to the ground as fast as possible.

Don’t forget to air up the tires too.

If the load turns out to be too much for your tractor you might consider fixing up some kind of a skid where you only need to pick up one end and drag the other end.

Have you primed the fuel system using the hand pump?

If you can confirm fuel flow from the hand pump, through the screw on filter and into the injection pump, the next step would be to loosen the hard fuel lines at each injector and crank to see if you have fuel coming out.

Dave is right, they put filters in weird places on these tractors. I would start at the tank and work through the system until you find the place where the flow stops.

Let us know more details as you work through the system.

Have you checked with the Jinma dealers such as Affordable or Circle G?

Since your front end loader and power steering work, we know that the pump is working and there is fluid.

Typically the fluid comes out of the tank under the seat (this also houses the 3pt. piston) and may or may not go through a filter to the pump. From the pump it goes directly to the diverter valve (sometimes called a priority valve). From there, the steering gets the fluid or if it is not needed it gets passed back to the 3pt control valve.

If you have a front end loader it will be inserted into the circuit before the diverter valve. This is usually done with quick connects so that you can uncouple the loader and remove it. You would then connect the two tractor side hoses to each other to provide normal hydraulic pressure to the tractor.

The hose that moves is the pressure line leading from the loader valve back down to the diverter valve. The fact that it moves is telling us that there is a restriction at the far end of the circuit and the hose is being pressurized and swelling slightly. This is normal.

Once the fluid leaves the diverted valve it heads to the 3pt control valve. This is usually a hard pipe but it is possible you have a hose there too. Inside the control valve the fluid either gets routed back to the tank through the pressure relief valve (hold or down positions) or to the lift cylinder (up position).

Since the cylinder is a one way only cylinder, there are two ports. One brings fluid in when the lever is in “up” and is blocked when the lever is in “hold” or “down”. The other port is connected to the flow control knob (under the seat at the front of the tank). Fluid then goes back to the control valve where it is blocked in the “up” and “hold” positions but is allowed to flow back to the tank in the “down” position.

By design the 3pt. can not put down pressure on the arms, it can only lift them. The only down motion is caused by weight on the arms, including the arms themselves. It is possible to force the arms up no matter what the position of the control valve is or whether or not the tractor is even running.

Take a look at the diagrams here: https://www.circlegtractorparts.com Just go to the online parts store and choose the make, model and engine number in the drop down boxes. Then go to the hydraulics section and click on the diagrams and you can see the whole system.

Usually whenever a cylinder hits the end of it’s travel it causes the pressure relief valve to open and you hear a whine or growl out of the hydraulics system. This is usually accompanied by a drop in engine RPM as it picks up a greater load. This is all normal and the since your engine needs more than idle RPM to do this indicates it is working as it should.

As Dave Privett mentioned it is possible that your internal piston has extended beyond it’s normal “maximum” and has become jammed in full up. If this has happened no amount of weight will cause the arms to lower. Usually the equipment end of the arms travel from a few inches above the ground to about 30″ above the ground.

First thing to do is to make sure the flow control knob under the seat is backed off at least a few turns. From sitting in the seat and looking down, clockwise will close the valve and cause the down movement to slow down or even stop if turned all the way. Counter clockwise direction makes the arms drop faster. Make sure it is not turned in all the way.

Second put the lever in the down position (tractor does not need to be running) and see if you can get the arms to go down. They will usually fall under their own weight but standing on them speeds it up.

If you still can’t get the arms down, then about all that is left is to remove the seat and the top cover of the tank so you can have a look at the piston and piston rod to make sure things are OK in there.

Based on that, I would say you have a problem in the control valve. I would bet there are no seals on the spool and it works only by close tolerance fit. These valves are not know for high quality tolerances in the first place and yours is likely worn some.

This is based on the concept that there are two ports into the cylinder. One from the control valve for pressure feed to lift and the other for the fluid to escape for lower. The second would take the path through the speed adjust knob (needle valve?) back to the control valve. This is also under the belief that the control valve has the pressure relief valve and the return path to the tank.

IF the speed knob is working properly and can close off the return path then the only way for the fluid to escape the cylinder is to leak past the piston or backward through the control valve. Since the position of the control valve affects how fast it leaks that would indicate the control valve is the culprit.

Of course the piston seal could be leaking too….