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Thanks Robert, I ended up drilling and re tapping the new cylinder to match the original and so far its all good.
Could someone please send me pics and instructions on building a rigid top link again.? I need to re-visit this again. my standard top link snapped yesterday and nearly killed me. Thanks, Tom W.
This was a huge effort. Something I never wanted to do and hope to never do again.
I got the axle removed. Had to break it down to this level to take off the spanner nut.my inner oil seal is also destroyed and since I am here I might as well replace my inner bearing. Since I have it broken down this far I might as well do the other axle bearings too.
the axle shaft itself is looking pretty bad where the bearings ground into it. I think I need to replace that too.Yep, I follow the circleG diagrams. That what I have been using and I like the zoom feature. Its funny that your diagram numbers don’t match the diagram numbers from my parts book and neither match the circleg numbers. None the less there is enough clarity to make progress.
My zerk on that axle was broken off from the day I bought it. I kept meaning to fix it but I kept forgetting. The bearing sits just inside the zerk hole. when injecting grease, The grease is squeezed between the double oil seals which are stuffed in the outer cap and the bearing. Thus you can squeeze grease right into he bearing from the face of the bearing. I trust my inner bearings are good. but since I am doing this I will make sure they are perfect.
Reading up on the hydraulic tank removal I don’t think that will be too bad. Regarding the wet axle. it is funny that when I finally noticed the destroyed outer bearing by listening to some clanking like someone dropped silverware, I noticed gear oil all over the inside of the rear tire. Something did squirt out. I stick a flashlight between the axle and the disintegrated bearing and it looks dry. none the less some “event” happened.
Oh My, Thank you. I was about to build my own wheel puller today and inadvertently completely destroy this thing. Its great how a different perspective looking at the drawings provides a whole different view point. I was way off. I thought the snap ring was clipped around the axle not the clipped in the housing. I thought the inner bearing was attached to the main gearbox not the axle housing. I see your point now. This is a much bigger project.
Hi Piper184. I should have included those pics. Sorry, It will be a couple of weeks till I get back up to my barn to take them again. I will measure the fittings with a thread guage and a micronometer in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the quick reply.
The best way is to install a rigid top link, and it works great. These come stock on LiTW backhoes. I gave instructions on how to make one in another thread.
Thanks David and Bob, I now see the threads on the rigid top link. The instructions look a little different than what would be needed for my LW6 but non the less I will investigate. My really big concern is I can’t see how this link will not be shredded / trashed when the 3-point lift is raised or lowered. It seams like you would have to put the 3-point lift at a precised setting and hope it does not drift.
