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I get it. I need:
18FP.57.107
18FP.57.105
and for fun I will replace 18FP.57.103 since I already fixed that with a piece of innertube.
Oddly enough. some sites stock “107” some stock “105” but no-one stocks both.
Tom
To add closure to this topic. Here is a picture of the welds now holding the bushings in place. Thanks all
I may be stating some obvious but on my 254, just after I got it I noticed the front wheel drive was not working. After I drained the Transmission gear oil, opened up the cover, looked inside I noticed that nothing was engaging. the problem was the pin in the handle had sheared off. The handle had the feel like it was engaging but actually it was rotating on the handle shaft. I used a steal nail as a new pin it all started working. I drained the oil and opened it up for nothing. I could have seen this from outside if I knew to look. On the same note on axles breaking. I have a previous post this summer where I was backing away from a tree, the bucket got caught in a branch. I exploaded a loader cylinder and crushed my right wheel bearings, but my axle stayed intact.
Thanks All. Here is an update. Northern Tool found a local place a few miles from me in central Arizona. They shipped new Trunnions and bushings. to make these stay this time there are four welds on the trunnions on each one to make sure they don't fall out this time. I was convinced that the grease fittings were not necessary because the bushings are supposed to be “oil infused bronze” I was skeptical at first but then I googled it and found that these do exist. I think I am all set now.
Thanks Bob. This will be my first test of Northern Tool's customer service. Its 6 months old with a 2 year warranty. The manually calls this the “swinging arm” Its been about 2 months but I think I drove it right into the barn after I found the 1 bushing on the ground. There is no telling how long the other one has been missing. probably the full 6-7 hours that is on the dozer. I gotta say of the two Jinma tractors I own. This is by far is the most fun to play with. How do you think the bushings should stay in there., compression? the diagram has no other holding mechanism. If compression is the answer, that doesn't appear to be a good solution.
Thanks, I agree. a different top hose could work. the bottom has to be angled away. So that is good. None the less the real problem is just that the rivets that connect the upper bracket have rusted through. Given the cost, I think I am going to try to get this fixed first and come up with another way to secure the top bracket with a cradle bracket over the top. I appreciate the help.
Thank you Tommy, From you website, the radiator for the 385T appears to be different in this way:
1, my radiator has the upper hole just to the right of the fill hole while the 385T appears to be offset to far right.
2. the lower hole of the 385T appears to be coming straight out the bottom while my radiator is located in the same place it takes a 45 degree turn to the upper left
Its hard to take the pic because its on the tractor.
the dimensions are: outside width 18.5 inches. Height to top of fill cap bout 22.5 inches. height to top/bottom of “chambers” not core. is 21.5.
I am starting to think I take it to a radiator shop.
Thank you Tommy. Parts are ordered. I believe this happened the same time I ruptured my right loader cylinder when I was backing away from a tree and my bucket got caught. I ordered everything I could. I.e. both bearings also. I look forward to getting this back running again.
