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I replaced the seals on my Koyker loader last summer, it wasn't hard at all. I heated the seals following instructions I had read on the internet. I know I did it on the kitchen stove, it was either a pan full of water or a double boiler with hydraulic fluid in the top, I can't remember.
The hardest part was getting the gland nut off, it's a lot easier if you crack it with the cylinder still installed so you have something to turn against.
The 354 has what's called Draft Control. The idea is that when an implement attached to the 3-point hitch encounters resistance the lift cylinder automatically lifts. It's for plowing, what's supposed to happen is if you hit a rock the plow lifts. I've never found it particularly useful but I don't plow.
The way that it works is that when the top link is attached to the lower hole, the end of the top link can move against the spring when it encounters resistance. When the top link is attached to the upper hole the end can't move and draft control is disabled. There is a small metal rod that runs from the top link attachment to the lift control handle, along the right side (facing forward) of the lift box. When the top link attachment moves that rod moves, and it has the same effect as raising the lift handle.
Early lift boxes had two handles, one to control the height of the lift and the other to control the amount of draft control. Newer lift boxes have just one handle. Draft control is only on when the lift is all the way down, which occurs when the handle is about half way down. Pushing the handle further down increases the amount of draft control.
Hope this helps.
Both the tach and the hours meter are driven by the sensor. The sensor sits near the flywheel, and the iron in the ring gear teeth running through the magnetic field of the sensor creates an alternating current which the tach senses. The sensor has to be precisely positioned for this to work. With the engine off, loosen the lock nut and screw it in until it touches, and then back it out 3/4 of a turn and lock it.
If that doesn't do it you need a new sensor, they're not expensive or hard to replace.
Dogdoc, I used to think exactly the same thing. The issue is that in addition to closing a switch, the solenoid in the Jinma starter also does the work of moving the gear into the engaged position on the flywheel. Surprisingly, this is a considerable amount of work — it draws 30 amps when doing so, which is 360 watts, or about half a horsepower. The wiring in the tractor just isn't up to this.
A comment on this —
I was skeptical about the need to add a relay to the starter solenoid. On most vehicles I'm familiar with the starter solenoid is a relay — in fact that's all it is. On the Chinese diesel, the solenoid also does the work of moving the starter gear into contact with the flywheel, unlike the Bendix style starters that are almost universal these days.
Moving that gear takes some current. I had my starter on the bench and I tested the solenoid with a fused power supply. I didn't have an ammeter that could handle the current of the solenoid, but a 10A and 20A fuse blew almost instantly. A 30A fuse melted slightly but didn't blow, so I would say the solenoid pulls slightly over 30 amps. The wire in the wiring harness looks to be 18 gauge, it should be 10 gauge for that current. I'll add that I doubt the switch contacts are rated for 30A, I suspect this is one of the reasons switch failures are common. The whole starting circuit is way undersized.
A relay with a 40A rating fixes this pretty quickly. Interestingly, I was looking for a socket for the relay for a neater installation, and I couldn't find a socket with anything over 14gauge wire! I guess it's not just the Chinese who have trouble sizing wire to current draw.
It doesn't matter which end of the driveshaft you put on first. If you put a dab of grease in each slot it will glue the ball in place while you work the shaft into position. The shaft just barely fits if it's compressed to it's minimum length. It may feel like it won't fit but it will.
The two cylinders are plumbed in parallel. If one is bypassing, fluid will leak from the other through it.
I have a post here with complete directions on how to split my tractor, including a list of required tools and materials. Your tractor sounds very similar to mine, a 4-cylinder Jinma 354.
The second time I split it, it took about two hours to split it and four hours to put it back together, I did it in one day. The first was considerably longer.
There's a lot of good info in the post that Rich references, particularly the photos give a good idea of what to expect.
In my description, I leave the flywheel housing attached to the engine block, which is the way I did it. Looking back, I would say it would be easier both getting the sump off and back on again if you take the flywheel housing all the way off.
I'm going to try a different way of posting the link. Click Here for instructions.
It should be the same as http://www.tractorbynet.com/fo…..print.html
Initially I had difficulty finding the oil pan gasket. I eventually took a picture of my pan and emailed it to Tommy at Affordable and he walked around in his gasket room until he matched it.
Let me know if you have questions, I'll try to answer.
