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Looks like there's a gasket between the Oil Sump and the Flywheel Housing. Can't see where there are bolts holding these together. Are they inside the Flywheel Housing? Is this why I would need to split the tractor?
The heads for those bolts are behind the flywheel. In order to loosen them you have to split the tractor, remove the clutch and remove the flywheel. A lot of work for a few bolts.
I think the answer as to whether you can keep working with the pan cracked depends on the kind of work you have to do. The oil sump is not under any pressure, it just holds the oil after it drips down out of the engine, until it get sucked up by the oil pump. Chewing gum or duct tape would probably keep oil from seeping through the crack, if you could get it to stick. We've probably all run engines that leaked “a little” oil, as long as you keep an eye on it and don't let it get too low it shouldn't be a problem.
A bigger issue, as rdstevens alluded, is that the pan is weight-bearing. If it were to crack completely and lose all of the oil while running, that could be very bad. When using rear attachments it doesn't take much weight. But if you're lifting something heavy with the front loader pretty much the entire weight of the tractor, plus whatever you're lifting, is borne by the front wheels — and the oil pan is the attachment point for the front wheels, so it's bearing that weight.
Glad to hear it's working. Did you spill time it, or just fiddle with it until it worked? I'm just curious in case I ever need to do it.
There are at least three different oil pans used with this engine so I may be wrong, but most of the time to take the oil pan off you have to split the engine from the transmission.
A tractor has no frame, the engine is the connection between the front wheels and the rear wheels, and it takes the full weight of whatever you are doing. On a Jinma the oil pan is where the front wheels connect to the engine and it is a weight-bearing component.
I'm going to speculate and say the reason your pan cracked was because your mechanic didn't use the right gasket. When it was put under load the sealant yielded and the pan flexed and cracked.
Anyway, you need to replace the pan. It costs about $125, I see no sense in fooling around given the amount of labor involved.
Detailed instructions for splitting my 354 are here, starting at post #19:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/fo…..low-2.html
It's not the same tractor but it's very similar, certainly the same general idea.
The second time I split my tractor I did the whole job in a single day, experienced mechanics seem to think 6-8 hours. So that should give you an idea of the magnitude. Nothing in it is more complicated than replacing a starter or hydraulic pump, it's just a whole day of loosening bolts and tightening them again.
Smokey —
I think you're on the right track trying to bypass the diverter valve, if it were leaking you would see low pressure on everything downstream. The bad news is, on my tractor at least, the fittings on the diverter are oddball metric fittings that I've been unable to find a source for.
I have an idea for you. Is your loader connected with quick-disconnects so you can remove it? On my tractor the plumbing goes pump — FEL — Diverter — 3PH. So the output of the pump is a short hydraulic hose with a quick-disconnect on the other end. What you want to work toward is a similar setup, so your plumbing goes pump — FEL — 3PH with the diverter valve out of the picture. The pump-FEL connection is going to be through quick-disconnects.
If the short hose that goes from the pump to the diverter on your tractor is the same hose I have, then you should be able to disconnect one end from the diverter and put a quick-disconnect on it, attach that to the input of the FEL and you're all set. If it's an oddball fitting that you can't match, what you need to do is get a hose like the one I have which will take a quick-disconnect. Your best bet then is to talk to one of the dealers like Tommy at Affordable.
One of the things about Chinese tractors is they seem to build them with whatever parts they've got lying around on the that day, so the fact that two tractors are the same model or year doesn't necessarily tell you much. The parts book that came with my tractor lists four possible layouts for the hydraulics. However, the hydraulic pumps seem to be highly standardized, and the output is just a simple banjo fitting. So I think there is a very good chance you can get a hose with a banjo on one side and a quick-disconnect on the other.
There is no “system” relief valve. Each valve has its own relief — the loader, power steering, and 3-point hitch.
How is your system plumbed? Mine it goes from pump to loader to steering to 3-point, so “right before it enters the loader control valves” is the output to the pump. The output to my pump is a hose about ten inches long with a quick-release on it and the loader is connected using the quick-release so it can be removed from the tractor.
If your system goes pump to steering to loader to hitch, problems with the steering valve could cause problems for everything downstream. There is a pipe on the steering valve that goes back to the hydraulic tank. If the steering is using hydraulic power it sends the fluid it uses back to the tank and bypasses everything downstream of it. If that valve were leaking internally there would be no power downstream. The valve I'm talking about is bolted to the side of the engine by your right foot, it has five hoses or pipes connected to it — send and receive from the steering wheel, power in, return to tank, and power beyond (downstream).
I'm just thinking out load. I don't know how to diagnose the steering valve.
I'm not saying necessarily the pump is bad, it could be a clogged filter, low hydraulic fluid, air in the system, something like that. These pumps don't like to have restriction on the intake.
That said, 200 hours is plenty of time for a pump to fail.
“My 3 pt also reliefs at 1300 psi. but is not slow.”
This just makes me suspicious. There isn't any connection between the 3pt valve and the loader valve. It may be coincidence, but it's strange that they're both relieving at low pressure, and at the same pressure. It's enough to make me wonder if maybe the valves aren't really relieving, but the pump is having trouble making pressure. When a cylinder reaches the end of its travel, there should be audible hissing, and it should be coming from the valve controlling that cylinder. Is that what you're hearing?
When you say “stalls out” do you mean the engine stalls, or the relief valve opens (hissing noise)?
In either case it sounds like your relief valve is not working. It should be more like 2000 PSI.
