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I bought 3-4 of them from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/c…..96073.html
I find it much handier to leave them on the implement once I get the length adjusted just right. The HF ones have the right bloodlines!
You don't need to be that precise. If you look at the picture I posted, both valves are closed for the whole compression stroke and power stroke. It's not like they're “more” closed at TDC than the rest of the stroke, the idea is that at TDC you're as far away from either valve opening as can be and there's no chance that one is slightly open when you're doing the adjustment. Being off by 20 degrees is no problem.
I pasted above an image of the four-cycle engine from Wikipedia because it helps me think about it. The four cycles are 1)intake, 2)compression, 3)power and 4) exhaust. The piston is at TDC twice — between exhaust and intake, and between compression and power. The intake valve opens for the intake stroke, and the exhaust valve opens for the exhaust stroke. You want to adjust the valves when they are both closed. Both valves are closed for the compression and power strokes. You want to adjust them at TDC between compression and power.
In two revolutions of the crankshaft each cylinder fires once, so with a 3-cylinder you get 3 fires per 720 degrees, or a fire every 240 degrees. So once you find the right TDC on one cylinder turning the crankshaft 240 degrees gets you to the right TDC for the next-firing one.
Please make sure you have fastened the kill switch so there is no possibility of the engine starting while you turn it by hand.
It looks like the O-ring is missing. It should go inside that groove in the male piece. I'd go to Harbor Freight and get a box of metric O-rings and see if one fits.
For inquiring minds:
My 354 pulls over 30 amps when the glow plugs are on cold (they pull less hot).
Power (in watts)= volts * current ( in amps)= 12v * 30+A= 360+ watts
So each glow plug ( I have four) is 90+ watts cold, somewhat less hot.
Also:
Power( in watts)= (volts squared)/ resistance (in ohms)
So 90=144/R, R= 144/90= 1.6 Ohms. Unless you have an expensive ohmmeter it's not going to be able to differentiate between 1.6 Ohm and a dead short. The simple field test is that a dead short will blow your fuse.
If the resistance of a glow plug is close to zero, it's getting voltage, and it's not blowing the fuse, then it's working. Note that you don't have to remove them from the tractor to measure resistance. You do, however, have to separate them from each other. If one is open and the others are good the change in resistance is probably not measurable.
If you remove the oil filter and spin the engine you'll very quickly know if the oil pump has failed.
If you don't have a helper to press on the clutch, I've found that a come-along on the pedal attached to something sturdy is good for holding the pedal down. Nothing else I could think of holds it securely all the way down.
As the PTO clutch disk wears you have to push the pedal in further to get it to release all the way. There is a bolt under the pedal that limits how far in you can push the pedal. You need to adjust that bolt.
Here's the way I like to do it: Get a helper. With the tractor off, put the PTO in gear. Remove the clutch switch. Have your helper push the clutch in all the way and go to the back of the tractor and see if you can turn the PTO output shaft. Adjust the bolt to the tightest setting where you can freely turn the output shaft. Put the clutch switch back and adjust it so that it closes when the pedal is against the bolt. If you put the switch in too much it will act as the clutch stop and you'll smash it when you stomp on the pedal.
If the PTO clutch needs adjusting it's likely the drive clutch does as well. There needs to be a gap between the clutch bearing and the clutch fork, otherwise the bearing will wear out quickly. As the clutch disk wears that gap shrinks. There is an inspection port on the side of the tractor. (Sometimes the port cover is removed and the holes are used for a front-end-loader support.) Remove the cover. With the pedal released there should be a .1″ gap between the bearing and the clutch fingers. Adjust the length of the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal to get that gap to 0.1″ when the pedal is released.
The drive clutch adjustment affects the PTO clutch adjustment so the drive clutch should be done first.
There is a more involved adjustment that is done on the clutch itself to make sure all of the clutch fingers are pressing equally. That adjustment does not change with wear and should not need to be changed if it was set properly when the clutch was installed.The finger adjustment can also be used to adjust for wear but I find it simpler to adjust from the outside.
