Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Wow, the Thermostart sounds great. Keep us posted on what you learn.
I have a 354 with a 2007 Y485 and it has never started well cold, sometimes the glow plugs do the trick and sometimes not. I’m not too proud to admit that I’ve used ether in a pinch. It’s very similar to the 385, in fact the manual that came with it was for the 385, so I’ll have to see if I have the same port in the intake.
When I needed a tube I got one at a local tire shop. I had to go to a couple of tire shops until I found one that didn't specialize in cars. The local tractor shop (Kioti) didn't have them.
I looked into ordering one online, they are widely available. However they are heavy and not that expensive and the shipping was as much as the tube.
My bet is that the line still has fluid under pressure. Can you put the splitter back on and (with the engine off) run the handle back and forth to release all pressure in the system? If that fails you could unscrew the coupling from the line to vent the pressure.
My experience is that couplers from different manufacturers don't always work well together, and the ones that come with the tractor aren't that great. You might consider just replacing all of them.
Could be a slipping fan belt as well.
August 10, 2011 at 11:02 pm in reply to: Tachometer and hour meter on 2008 YTO X704 , stopped working #32912In my Jinma there is a flywheel sensor that triggers both hours and tach. It is on the left side (your left when you're sitting in the driver seat), about where you'd expect the flywheel to be. It is very sensitive to adjustment. To adjust: with the engine off, loosen the locknut and screw the sensor in until it touches the flywheel. Unscrew 3/4 turn and tighten the locknut. The sensor does seem to fail fairly often, I replaced mine after about 200 hours.
I don't know if your engine is similar, so this may not be helpful.
Was this email sent by someone who you think knows you, or was it just random junk? It is very, very common for viruses to infect someone's computer and then go through that person's email address book sending messages from one person in the book to another. What the virus is trying to do is to get you to open an attachment that will put the virus on your computer because you trust the sender, and thereby spread the virus to another computer.
If that's the case then tracking down the computer that sent the email doesn't do you any good, because all you'll find out is which of your friends has a virus-infected computer.
The person with a virus could be you. It's always a good idea to have anti-virus software on your computer and make sure it's up to date.
However, if someone is really pretending to be you it's a slightly different story, but I'm not sure the outcome is going to be much different. Yes, it is theoretically possible to find out what computer a message originated on. But doing so requires the cooperation of your and their Internet service providers, and they won't cooperate without a court order. And unless the person was dumb as dirt they probably sent the message from a public hotspot in a library or coffee shop and the trail goes cold there.
Caller ID spoofing is completely separate from email spoofing. You can sign up for it over the Internet, it's very easy. To get anywhere digging into it you would probably have to supoena the phone company, which means you would have to show that laws had been broken or you had been harmed. Caller ID spoofing by itself is perfectly legal. The actual service is offered by marginal phone providers. After supoenaing a chain of phone companies you might very well find the company at the end of the chain keeps no records and can't help you.
PM me if you want to discuss further.
The most common cause of this is the tachometer sender isn't working. It may need to be adjusted or replaced. To adjust, with engine off screw it in all the way and then back a half turn.
-
AuthorPosts