Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Dick , I hear what you are saying about Tommy , ….. I have thrown him a couples of bales myself. Most all of us need help from time to time.For me it is not a debate on what Tommy called it at all …….. it’s what it is. Sometimes the new replacement injection pumps come with the check valve installed in the inlet side… which is the wrong side as you know. Fuel pushes against the already spring load check ball and fuel will not pass through. Throws some people off when they don’t see'/notice the difference that one has the check ball in it…. both inlet and out let same size/thread. Glad you got it going !. I can’t / don’t live in front of these tractor boards.Owners & new owners are starving for info on these Jinma tractors new or used due to the fact no good books. They find these tractors boards and some go with the first thing they read or find out without researching what they found out to be good or bad info. When Bob Rooks 1st posted all of his documentations with his theory of operation and descriptions ……. seemed like everyone that thought they had a fuel problem wonted a replacement check valve bolt after reading his post’s ( took awhile for me to figure out what they were talking about). Then a call or email back that it did not fix it, can I send it back etc….. after 4-5 I found out they had read his post. Some think old threads die. I called a couple of other guys that sell Jinma parts and ask them if they have had a increase in injection pump check valve sells all said yes. On this side of the fence the check valve was a VERY, Very slow moving part until now. I Don’t mind the business but hate it when it don’t fix it.I was hoping that Bob Rooks could answer the questions about his post number 10 with some kind of technical meaning that applied to your tractor that readers could use/trouble shoot/research there fuel problem without guessing $$$$$.Appears that Bob Rooks wants me over here >>> CLICK HERERonaldRanch Hand Supply
Hello Bob,
I see you have been busy Googleing and have made several comments/links about several different injection pumps designs which all incorporates different fuel supply and delivery designs that are chosen by different manufactures. Would have been nice if it pertained to the fuel system in this tractor.
While in theory…… a diesel is a diesel ….. they all don't have the same fuel supply & delivery set up.
My technical comments in this thread are directed to the engine and fuel system that is in the Jinma 284 that Dick started.
I am a very uneducated man compared to what you have posted yourself as having….. good job!.
To me it seems you have a lot of paper knowledge and have not been able to apply all your theory's
to real life (hands on) to be able to see that the book is only a guide.
Tell ya what do, need some more clarifications.
Need more pictures and videos that your very good at. Like this one.>> CLICK HERE
If possible try not to use a Tire Pressure Gauge or R12 Freon Gauge. A Gauge design/manufactured for fuel and vacuum has given me much more true readings in the past.
Do these test at 15 second cranking speeds and note, with Check Valve Installed.
1; Vacuum reading on suction side of lift pump.
2; See if lift pump suction side holds a vacuum after 15 sec crank.
3; Lift pump dead head pressure reading at pump.
4: See if pressure reading holds after 15 sec crank.
Engine Running at idle. With Check Valve Installed.
1; Lift pump pressure reading at inlet of injection pump fuel chamber.
2; See if pressure reading holds when shut down.
Compare these two readings to crank test reading.
Remove air from system so engine will start and idle. After idling say 1-2 minutes … shut down the engine. Remove banjo bolt from fuel line feed on the inlet side fuel chamber …… take note of how much fuel runs outs of chamber while removing and completely out. Now break loose the banjo bolt on the outlet side of the fuel chamber that contains the check valve. Now take note of how much fuel comes out the inlet of the chamber and the fuel return line especially if the fuel level in the tank is above/over the return port in the side of the tank.(inside of the tank is what I call unfiltered fuel. Might give you a idea of what happens with out the check valve installed??.
The check valves you mentioned in the lift pump. One is for the hand pump and the other is for the piston . Did your pressure reading show it will hold after shut down?
When you show/state the check valve is relieving when the needle bounces on your gauge. Tid Bit… a piston pump of that design makes the fluid pulse which makes the needle on the gauge bounce…. crazy ain't it.
How much psi does it take to lift the check ball off it's seat?
Show how the check valve (the one you say is adjustable) is design to be adjusted. And how adjustments effects engine performance.
Never said the check valve was not necessary. You are the one demanding that it be known that it is not a check valve with a theory of 36 different designs that's not this tractor,lol.
….. I am just saying it will run, at full throttle, at max load and hold it without the check valve installed. Done it more than one time on the Dyno. I found out by mistake/luck when rigging up fuel pressure gauges at different places at idle, under load etc. For me it is hard to recognize bad when I don't know what good is. Had to do something if I am going to work on them …… again, no good books with any type of real reference. Make my own know good specs as I go. Been doing it 6 years now on Jinma's and still don't know nothing.
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
Don't know your location ??? but agree with Aubrey.
Will add 15W40 for injection pump.
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
Depends on which filter head you have ( threads).
We offer a replacement head assembly that will allow you to use a WIX 51515 or a cross… 3/4 16 thread.
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
Quote Bob Rooks;
#1; FWIW,
#2; It is not considered a check valve.
#3; Think about it.
#4; The fuel return line goes into the top of the tank.
#5; Why would you care if there was a check valve in the return line?
#6; It is a PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE!
#7; It's purpose is to provide resistance against the lift pump in order to keep the fuel cavity (chamber) in the fuel injection pump under pressure so the helix in the plungers can pick up fuel.
#1; Maybe we can find out ?
#2; Really?. In some of your other post/videos you are stating that it is a relief valve, adjustable Pressure Regulating Valve and now a PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE!??
#3; Back at ya….. maybe Google >> Check Valve…… the word, pictures & videos.
#4; Agreed…..but not quiet on top.
#5; Then How would you protect unfiltered fuel from entering the plunger pump chamber after shut down ?? and or keep a vacuum lock on the fuel chamber/fuel supply side for quicker start ups after setting/shut down….. ((maybe the word prime?))??
#6; So if it is REGULATING as fuel passes through ……… What happens or goes wrong when the fuel reenters the fuel tank unregulated??
#7; Then why will the engine perform with the check valve (aka PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE!) in my pocket….at idle, full throttle, full load etc… ??.
Ronald
That would be my 1st guess as well …… steering cylinder by-passing.
We have had some customers take the re-build kit and cyl to there local rebuilder.
Ronald
I have seen that a very few times.
I have seen the seals( two, back to back) bad behind the brake assy.
I have seen the allen head bolts weep oil due to improper torque.
There is a O-ring under the collar the seal lip rides on weep/leak.
You should be able to see the problem once dissassembled.
Ronald
