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Thanks for the input Gentlemen. It is definately gear oil that I'm leaking into the clutch housing, I had a chance to look at it closer this weekend. From my manual looks like I have to replace an oil seal around the main shaft and a couple o-rings between the main and the PTO shaft. I would certainly still replace the rear seal and anything else I can get to while the tractor is cleaved. As for the clutch pack, what are your thoughts on replacing just the the clutch discs and the spring disc/s? Thanks again.
Hello DogDoc, I use a modified standard 20″ by 20″ in home air filter(the inexpensive blue or green fiber filters) to keep the seeds and chaf out of my radiator. It works well for this. The way I do it is that I remove the paper frame of the filter and insert the filter element between the metal grating that sits in front of the radiator and the radiator. This set-up does need to be cleaned from time to time depending on how much chaf and seeds are being stopped before they make it into the radiator. I have found that it is much easier to change/clean the filter than to clean the radiator. I put a hose clamp with a thumbscrew on the engine intake filter Hose since my Farmpro 2430's hose blocks the removal of the metal grating. That way I can clean the filter in about 2 min without tools. My tractor runs at about 140F-180F under normal working load so when I see it go north of 180F I stop and clean the filter. The tractor always goes back to the normal range after this. Hope this helps. I also posted on this topic earlier if you're interested.
I had symptoms just as you decribed with my JM304/Farmpro 2430, I could make the symptoms go away by pumping up the manual primer on the side of the injector pump so I figured the manual primer pump must be bad. Hoewever, I also noticed the plastic sediment bowl was sucked-in, might be hard to picture but it was like the sediment bowl was colapsing. I decided to just replace the sediment bowl assembly and lines with the kit from Ranch Hand Supply since that was much cheaper than the entire injector pump. All I can say is that it solved the rough running and power drop for me. Good Luck.
Here are a few pictures of my coolant recovery tank on my Farmpro 2430(JM304). I bought it at NAPA and made a bracket to mount it out of some scrap angle iron. It's pretty simple to make if you have a welder. If not it might be possible to just notch a piece of angle and bend it. Hope this helps.
Stephan,
I had a problem with a bad injector on my FP 2430(JM304). I was getting white smoke and loss of power. I had to pull all injectors and inspect the tip of each. One of the three injectors was wet with fuel and more black in color while the other two were dry and grey in color. I replace the wet black injector and that fixed the problem. This may help you identify the bad one(assuming it's there is only one bad). Good Luck.
Ray
I'm not an expert farmer but, for small seeds like clover, chickory and alfalfa etc it is imortant that they make good contact with the soil and not be buried too deep. I planted about 1.5 acres of clover last spring that didn't germinate because I used a heavy fence drag to cover it. Now I disc, fence drag(to smooth), broadcast my seeds and then cultipack. Hopefully this will work better.
Hello Jerry, I have the same equipment as you and had a bad injector that caused alot of white smoke while the engine was running due to unburned fuel. I don't think the injector is really meant to be adjusted in the field.
I had a more recent problem that had the same symptoms that you describe. The tractor would idle fine with no smoke but when I tried to increase engine RPM or just move the tractor under idle in a low gear, the engine would quit. I found that I could pump the primer on the side of the injector pump and get the engine RPM's to normal but it would only run at high RPM for about 5 seconds. I could keep it there by continually pumping the primer. I concluded there must be a problem with the primer. So, I replaced the primer and that took care of my problem. That's just my experience. I think we need to know a little more about your situation and symptoms to get a good diagnosis. Thanks.
Here is a link to a post on instaling an injector pump. It helped me to re-time mine.
You have a good point Bob. I'm sure I'll be picking up just as many thorns in my tires after I put them in. Doesn't look like too many folks have used these so, I'm going to order a couple and give them a try. When I fix the flats the thorns are never over 1/2″ inside the tire so I think the added thickness of the Tube Guard will prevent 95% of my flats. I'll let everyone know how they work. Thanks.
