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Why not call the previous owner and chat with him, maybe see if you've missed something. Is it cold there? I know with my Jinma, when it's cold, it will take a while before my 3 point wants to lift much. I use Aw32 and it still is very sluggish till things get warmed up. Turning that knob one turn may not have been enough. Should be able top turn it several turns with no trouble. Chances are it's something pretty simple.
I agree. Every time I've had to use 4X4, I'd get stuck or spin out in 2 wheel drive, then go to 4 wheel drive and get going again. I make a point of only using the 4X4 when the tractor tells me I need it. So, if/when it's working, you'll know it for sure.
It's your tractor and you are the only one who can actually see what is going on with it, how bad the leak is, etc. Having said that; If that cracked part gives way completely under strain of the farm work you do with it, while under load, out in the field and you don't notice it quickly enough to shut the engine down, ……………… IMO, the time and expense to tear it down and replace the defective part (approximately a day, to a day and a half), versus the expense of a complete failure, loss of use of the tractor for however long it takes to drag the carcass to the shop, evaluate the damages and order the parts, wait time for parts delivery and then performing the repair………. That also assumes the mechanic will be immediately available to work on your tractor when the total failure takes place. Are you feeling lucky?
As to the other question; You are within your rights to ask questions. How much you value the availability and good relationships with your mechanic, will determine how your questions are asked, or if asking them are worth the possible damage to the relationship. If he hasn't already offered to help out with a proper repair, based on what he should already know, then I would question his reliability. That's just me, standing in the hall, looking in the door. You know your circumstances and the alternative availability of other mechanics, better than I do. I also know, from personal experience, pulling te tractor down myself and doing the repair myself, would probably be my first option, because I have alread successfully done so. But nobody can make those choices for you. Either way, I hope it all works out well for you, whatever you decide.
Have to agree with Tommy. The price of the sump/oil pan is the easy part. It's time consuming to split the tractor, but it's pretty straightforward, provided you have the means to support the back half, while suspending the front half/engine. I can make guesses as to why the pan/sump cracked, but who needs speculation. Get the parts on order, and then get after getting them replaced. Look carefully at everything as you take it apart, to see if you can pinpoint what caused the failure (loose or broken bolts for example). Replace any bolts/nuts that look even slightly questionable. And when you put it back together, be certain everything is aligned properly and then bolted securely.
Sure would be nice to be able to disagree, without being disagreeable. Advice has been given and explained. He is free to accept, ponder, or ignore. Insults don't accomplish anything positive in the information exchange. Your mileage may vary.
It's not what I would have recommended. But in for a penny, in for a pound, if you haven't warped the flywheel, you just might get away with it.
From your clarification, if you are sure the hydraulic tank is at or near the proper level, I'd be looking at the priority valve as a likely source of your problem. Could be sticking, could be plugging up, could be foaming fluid.
No Harbor Freight within more than 500 miles of me, so they're off the shopping list. I won't buy mail order because I prefer to look over the cheap junk before I spend any money on it. But when I lived in Texas, I bought and still have a fair bit of Harbor Freight merchandise.
Mine has a vent cap, and the plastic cover will revolve around endlessly, but never un-screws. Looks similar to the one posted but slightly different.
Typically you'll find 2 or more sizes of toplink available at ag stores as Tommy mentioned. Most all are adjustable for length so the standard sized one at about 24 inches long is what you'll probably want. The pins will be about 6-7 inches long, and will fit the pin opening of the toplink you buy. Pick up at least 2 of the pins. More will be good and the “extras” can be stored in the toolbox for use when needed.
