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The knock seems to be coming from the right hand side, about halfway up the block, and towards the front. That's as much as I can narrow it down. Occasionaly it'll skip a knock, but not with any regularity. Every now and then, I can hear a faint squeak. Only time I have ever heard something similar, was in my 83 Ford with 6.9 diesel, and 330,000 miles. Took $2000, a re-ground crank and a new connecting rod to fix that. And that was back in 92!
Still waiting for info on removing the front drive shaft. Any suggestions?
Drained the oil, unbolted the oil pan. Looks to em like th front driveshaft is gonna be in the way, especially if things look ugly with the pan off. Other than taking out the 4 bolts on the front flange, and taking the hose clamps loose from the boot on the dr shaft halves, is there anything I should watch for at this point? Do I just pry the flange away from the front diff to pull the drive shaft? Do I have to take it lose from both ends? I planned to just pull one end to move it over out of the way, but….. There used to be more info like that in the old forum, but I guess I'm not smart enough to figure out how to get to those old posts, or at least the info.
Okay, direct reading Oil Pressure gauge installed. I put in a tee so I could still use the factory sending unit for the dash gauge. New direct reading gauge reads 50 psi, give or take. Dangit, the tractor starts good and runs decent and if I was deaf, I wouldn't know there was a thing wrong!
Thanks Dave. I pulled the valve cover off again yesterday and all looked to be working as normal. I did NOT see as much oil working up there as I had expected, but it was getting oil. My pressure gauge now seems to be whacked out, had been sitting at 6, turn swithch on it'd go to zero than gradually back up to 6, and then after start, stay at 6. Well, yesterday it's pretty much pegged at 10. So when I go into town today, I'll get a mechanical pressure gauge.
This all started when I was pushing snow down a hill. All had been fine up to that point. I thought it was a rather loud, bad injector, but after replacing 2 of them, there was no improvement. When I crack the lines to each injector, I get a drop off for each cylinder indivdually.
So far, no signs of oil in water, nor water in oil.
It is starting much better now, even with the cooler weather. I hit the glow plugs for about 30 seconds, and it'll crank a bit, and then pick up and start firing. I hit the glow plugs while it's running, and it'll smooth out. No white smoke now. But I don't run it very much while troubleshooting cuz I just hate that knocking sound. Had resolved to drain the oil again and pull the pan today, but I'll put a pressure gauge on it first and see what I see. I don't want to have to tear that engine down, but it's sure looking like that's what it'll come to before this is over. With luck, I'll have some more facts to ponder by the end of this day.
Won't go into what-all I went thru, but I got it running this afternoon. Lotsa pre-heat, and lotsa keep on trying, but I finaly got it to run and keep running. Bled the lines and so on. Still have the knocking. Not 100% of the time, but 95% anyway. I'm gonna take the valve cover off tomorrow and see what the valves are doing while it runs. Just wondering if I have a bent pushrod, stuck lifter, something along those lines. I know it's hitting on all 3 cylinders cuz when I crack each line, the rpm drops off. But I can't yet pin down what is causing the knocking sound. It seems to be about midway down the side of the block, but I can't even be sure of that.
Had other things going on for the past few days, but yesterday i had a bit of time to spend on the tractor issues. Got the coolant topped off and was looking things over, and discovered to my disgust, I had let that tractor sit all that time, with the fuel shut-off, in the ON position. Further, when I pulled the dipstic on the injector pump, fluid (I presume a combination of oil and diesel fuel) ran out. So I drained the oil from it and let is drip for about 30 minutes. Forgot what a PITA it is to add oil to that thing. Had to quit before I finished, so I'll get back to that today. I'll roll the tractor out of the shop to start it, to avoid smoking up the place. Will update once I have anything further to add.
Okay, put the injectors back in, after giving them a spray with carb clean and wiping the barrel of them off. Didn't touch the little nozzles. Did notice one injector….when I went to install it, there was no washer on it. I looked around and down in the hole, but no washer. No sign of it having fallen off either. Couldn't get the washer off my extra injector, so I put that extra in, with it's own washer.
Went to put the valve cover back on. %#@^!!! What's the magic trick to getting the de-compression coupling back in place while installing the valve cover??? Kept messing with it, put some heavy grease on it and tried again about 15 times. The last time, I think, maybe, hopefully, I got it on and in place. Didn't hear the dang thing drop off anyway. Oh well, tomorrow gotta get some oil and some coolant and see what's what. Bleed the injector lines etc.
I'm sure ready to accept “soot is normal”! On that note I'm gonna put the injectors back in their holes. Hmm….maybe not just yet. There has to be a reason it wouldn't turn over until after I pulled the injectors. But I don't want to pull the head unless I have to. Recommendations?
Okay, I cleaned up my jumper wire for the cllutch interlock and got it to try to turn over. So I pulled all 3 injectors, and it turns over freely now. Got some vapor out of the holes, but no spray of liquid, so I am somewhat hopeful. The injectors however I'm not so sure of. The front one was sooty, the middle one was even sootier, and the back one was sooty and a bit wet. I kept my grubby fingers off the nozzles and whatnot and just set the injectors aside for now. I have two others I had pulled from the tractor before when I had began having the troubles, nd they are much cleaner. I had stored them with the plastic covers in place so they may be usable for now. Do I attempt to clean the sooty injectors? Best method? If I have to replace them what's the cost?
I had a jumper wire on that interlock. Still not certain that isn't an issue yet. I'll do some electrical checks to make sure I know it's good. The hydraulic tube I had on a long tme ago for just that reason.
I used to be a regular on the old forum and got lots of good tips like that back then. That's why when I decided it was time to get the Jinma going, I knew to come back here for the assistance.
I have already drained the crankcase, got 2 gallons out of it, but no sign of water at all there. Not milky, just dark oily, etc. I'm thinking the hydraulic seal is the more likely culprit, because I still have well over a half tank of fuel in it. Guessing it it was fuel leaking thru it would just keep leaking thru till the tank was empty. We'll see. Hope the fix, when I find it, isn't too spendy.
