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Your rite new doesn't mean they will work,, not that I have tested them just yet but it is becoming increasing clear that there have been a couple designs. The pic I posted earlier shows the brass or copper washer compressing against flat landings between the head is the new plug, after a careful look the existing plugs have a rounded bottom to them where the copper washer compresses against the head and plug. I hope I can still find the rite ones. I know how things change?? Also the copper washer on one was left behind and did not come out with the plug, like rich was talking about, It is still stuck and I am having a time breaking it free so I can remove it. I don't want to damage the seat.
Good Point Rich,
I have received the new glow plugs and like always there is something I don't know,, the new glow plugs come with a copper washer that slides up and down the heating element this washer Possibly could slide off and into the glow plug receiving hole in the block as I am installing, is this copper washer for sealing purposes and meant to stay in place during the install with grease?? Or should it be removed?? I defiantly don't want to loose it inside the engine>
I pulled each one out clamped each to ground and gave it direct 12Volt to the tip of each one checked for voltage,, they did not heat. I have ordered the new glow plugs.
Yes I unthreaded the round nut that secures the copper bar to the glow plug at the green wire connector, slid the meter probe just under the green wire connector and above the copper bus bar, then tightened the round nut compressing the probe between the bus bar and the green wire connector, I do think it was #39, turned the key to heat position and got 12.10 volts at the glow plug/ bus bar then turned key to off and got no volts then again 12.10 volts, same with a test light hit the heat and light lights up.
I was hoping the Amp meter was defunct,, but it shows discharge on everything but the glow plugs,, even did a preheat for 20-30 seconds just for kicks and it made no difference it still would not start easy, seems unlikely all 3 would go bad at once for no known reason?? Guess I'm going to have to pull each one and verify they will heat with direct current??
Thanks guys,
I do have glow plugs and have been using them t o preheat and Start the 28/4 since 2004. I believe its a Y385 engine.
I did have a little time today to get back to this, after removing the brass bar that connects the three glow plugs and giving it a good cleaning and reconnection, I am Getting good voltage 12.10 but still no draw on the amp meter,, if one plug goes bad will the other 2 work? As I'm righting this I am wondering about the Amp meter itself,, not sure which is most probable to go bad at this point.
Well thanks for the lead on this fix,, when I turn the key on I show no draw on the amp meter I continue to turn and the starter engages after looking I'm not sure where the glow plugs are located,, frankly I'm stumped on this!! Why would leaving the key on create this problem? if I need to change the ignition and glow plugs I'm willing but I don't know exactly where the glow plugs are located in the engine? Just a bit more help please, using a electrical meter is not a strong point I have.
I was in dirt digging into a pile slowly curling and raising the bucket thinking about old posts of this so I thought I was being cautious,,, guess not.
I took off the Drive shaft cover removing the remaining bearing pieces and the Half Moon Washers, I thought the broken shaft would come out but it doesn't nor does the big drive gear can someone explain the steps to removing the broken axle so I can put the new one in? I really don't want to take things apart for no reason??
