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Thanks Len I thought that might be what I needed to do but thought I would check to be sure.
Thank You tommy for the info you have provided. I have been out of town for a week so I will pass on what you have provided so far to my mechanic and see if he is ready to proceed with trying to time my tractor. I will let you know how things work out.
Hi Tommy
It is true that I am not a mechanic. I did not do the rebuild. I am just a go between my mechanic and this site. When he put the gears on the front he lined up the marks. I believe they were marked I, II,AND III. One of his questions is that he saw the picture of the gears lined up in one of my questions before about timing and it shows the gear on the injection as having slots in it and mine doesn't so do I have the right gear on my pump or should I have one with slots in it. I realize that my pump has the slots in it where the bolt holes are so I figured that they would take the place of the slots in the gear but he wanted me to ask. To simplify all of this would it be okay if I gve my mechanic your number so he could call you and sort this out without me confusing anybody anymore? I would appreciate it very much. I bought the short block from circle g tractor and the head from you and had a certified diesel mechanic put it together so this not a backyard rebuild but he still has questions so I am the go between. I do have the manuals for him to use. Thanks again Tommy
I'm back with some more ouestions on timing my 354. I am not a mechanic by any means and I am learning as I go so please be paitent with me and I will try to be as specific with the terminology and my questions as I can. First let me start by saying that I have had the complete motor overhauled and the injection pump is new. When the motor was reassembled the gears on the front of the motor were all put together with the marks matching. So here goes with the questions. How do I know when the motor is at top dead center? How do I get it to top dead center? When the motor is at top dead center does that mean that the timing is at 0 degrees? How do I know what the timing degrees are since I can't find no marks? Are the degrees determined by the gear teeth? (Does one tooth on the gear equal 1 degree or what) How do I know when I get to my recommended setting when I can find no marks to go by? I know that there are slots on the injection pump that you can loosen and adjust the timing but I understand that will only adjust to about 3 or 4 degrees each way. In the picture that I have in this post the gear on the injection pump has slots in it and the gear I have on mine does not. Is that because the pump itself has slots on it? I have the copy of the spill timing method that has been posted on here but its not answering my questions that I can tell. Okay I'll stop for now and wait for some help. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE!! 
Hi Bob
If I understand you correctly the hand pump should get fuel up to the top of the pump only. Then by turning over the engine you get the fuel up to and including into the injectors to start the motor. If I can get fuel up to the top of the pump where the injector lines connect but no further the what could the problem be? I have what we will call the check valve connect to the return line that goes up to the injectors and on to the tank. With this connected this way I can pump forever and not get hard prime. If I understand you correcetly this means that that valve is weak and is allowing fuel to up through the return line instead of stopping the fuel in the top of the pump and letting it go up to the injectors through the top of the pump. Please be paitient with me as I am not even a good backyard mechanic but slowly learning from experience. Thank You!!!!!
I was told on one side there is a regular banjo bolt and on the other side there is a bolt with a check valve in it to keep the fuel from running back out of the pump or somthing to the nature. When I put the regular banjo bolt on the back side (tank side) and the other bolt with the check valve ( return side) I was told it was called that I can pump the hand primer but it doesn't get hard to pusheven after I've been at it awhile. If I put the check valve bolt on the back side (tank side) and the regular bolt on the front side (return side) I cant get the primer to pump at all because it is instantly hard when I try to prime it .
Hi Rich
I switched the banjo bolts on each end to see what would happen. When I had the banjo bolt with what looked like the check valve in it on the back of the pump (connected to the line from the filter) I could not get the hand primer to work. It acted as though it had been pumped up and couldn't get any harder. When I switched the banjo bolt with the check valve in it to the front of the pump (connected to the return line to the tank) The hand primer pump could be continously pumped without getting any harder to pump. The pump has been timed. I used a small amount of starting fluid to dtermine if it was a fuel problem and it started right up. So I am assuming that it is a fuel problem since it started with the staring fluid and I can't get the fuel to pump up any further than the pump itself. With the banjo bolt with the check valve in it connected to the front of the pump I can get fuel to the pump and through the pump to the return line but not up into the injector lines leading up to the injectors.
Thanks Tom for the info. If I have to replace the batteries I will go to one 12 volt instead of the 2 six volt batteries. What size cranking amps did you use?
