Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Thanks Piper184, I was going to change oil/filter as well. I also thought I may have a stuck ring after sitting so long. An oil additive is certainly worth a try before opting for the heavier maintenance. Incidentally, I also have experience on the Lycoming (IO360) aircraft engine from my Air Force days.
Thanks for your responses. I did buy it new and have maintained the engine oil with 30 wt per the dealer’s recommendation. It has the 3 cyl Y385 eng. Will start with retorquing the head and valve adjustments and then check fuel system (filter/sediment bowl) for contaminants. Hopefully others will respond with additional recommendations.
Thanks Bob. I did not run another temp check after adjusting the valve lash. I’ll check it again per your recommendation and post my findings.
Thanks for the input. My initial assumption was that the problem was associated with the #1 cyl since the exhaust temp ran 30 degrees cooler than cylinders 2 and 3. However, that has been explained away by the proximity of the #1 cyl to the cooled water from the radiator. Sounded plausible to me.
In any case, I adjusted the valves and bled the injector fuel lines per KenOtractors’ recommendation. My 284 fIred right up running smooth and minus the engine knock and blue exhaust smoke. I note just a little bit of gray smoke. So at this point I’m a happy camper.
Thanks David. I waS unable to get a socket on the crank pulley bolt and decided against pulling the radiator. InstEad, I removed the glow plugs and then used a remote starter switch to turn the engine To position the valve rockers for adjustment. About half the valves required some adjusting but fortunately none of them were overly tight.
My problem now is reassembling the compression release mechanism in the valve cover. There is a small coupler part that installs between the handle meChanism on the valve cover and the pressure reduction shaft on the valve rocker assembly. It’s got me baffled. Since my tractor doesn’t use the pressure relief feature I’m wondering if I can simply remove those componeNTs and not worry about it.
Comments from anyone?
Update…..I started with loosening the fuel line to each injector and allowing each to bleed for about 10 seconds. There was a definite RPM drop as each line was loosened but the RPMs recovered as the lines were tightened. The engine knock did seem to improve and the blue smoke seemed to disappear but I’m not fully convinced the problem is remedied.
My next step is to retorque the head (Although the engine only has 37 hours) and to Check valve lash. The owners manual describes the Adjustment procedure but I find it difficult to see the crank pulley markings and the reference arrow on the block. Do I need to pull the radiator and/or the alTernator to gain access? If anyone knows of an easier way please advise.
FinAlly, I rechecked the cylinder temps but this time I shielded the surfaces from the fan air but found temps to read the same with the #1 cylinder running ~30 degrees cooler than Cylinders 2 & 3.
I welcome any advice/feedback.
