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So do all Ford Select-O-Speed tractors (3000 ,4000,5000 series) built between 1965 and about 1970 you can also get the key switch to power the thermostart without a relay. (turn left for thermostart-start right- start
Farm boys also carries the thermostart that fits Rhino/ Shanghai and some other chinese tractors for about $20
lifting the front axle off the ground- using the loader and have the tractor in gear (engine off) and 4×4 selected
Spin one front wheel- the other front wheel should spin in the opposite direction if everything is ok- due to differential action in the 3rd member and because the front axles differential pinion is locked (because its in 4×4). Unless your tractor features (front diff lock) doubt it- or the front driveline has become un coupled as stated above (most likely ) Hope this makes sense
Clyde wondering which (rust check) did you use ? The type that (converts rust would be bad) in the sense that any rust that formed on the cylinder walls will be converted to a more permanent coating that would be very hard for the rings to slide over-
also you did not mention using any marvel , ATF, diesel or any other fluid to break down the rust and lube the cylinder walls…if you used a rust check product that breaks down rust and lubes (my apologies).
At this point it does sound prudent to take the head off and have a close look at everything.
MARK or index the gears under the front cover- some engines are indexed with #1 piston at top dead center. My Chinese tractor was not..
You may not have to mark any of the gears (if it was done by the factory)
You want to have a verifiable way to align all the gears.
– and therefore timing in the correct positions BEFORE the head is taken off-
this is to have the gear indexing figured out- in case after head removal, the crank gets turned to remove pistons…
This is one of those (an ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure-instances). As others have said take plenty of pictures to aid in reassembly.
Good luck and We all learn by doing
One reason a person might want to run a 15-40 diesel engine oil in a gas engine that is a standard ohv with standard (non roller lifters) or cam -solid lifter including hydraulic solid lifter, is reduced wear on the cam/ lifter wear interface…
Since the oil companies (by order of the EPA) have been reducing the ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) -contains Zinc and Phosphorous materials that are sacrificed -instead of the metal of the cam and lifters due to metal to metal contact- resulting in premature wear.
All diesel rated oils have more of these sacrificial metals which can save wear of the solid lifters and cam.. Some people buy the ZDDP additives and add them to for high $ 60's muscle cars. Personally I run Shell Rotella T in my 69 GTO engine and some other older American gas engines… my 2 cents
Clyde – What rust check did you spray into the injector holes , most of their products are for coatings and protectors- there is the freeze product but normally it is for external nuts and bolts…
you may want to try something like marvel mystery oil or even ATF and a little acetone mixed in. give it some time before trying to turn the crankshaft. if it won't move add some more and give it another day and continue trying-
if it takes a week you may have enough damage to need tear down, If it does loosen up, turn by hand until it is not binding up hold the compression relief open roll it over
if ok dump the oil change the filter roll over again till you have oil pressure and then try and start it . it's worth a try Good luck
When you replaced or had the crankshaft turned , did you replace the oil pump with a new one ?
If not all the oil that may have caused you to replace the crankshaft most certainly was run through the oil pump .
The pressure regulation is controlled by unseating a ball and bypassing the oil into the crankcase , so if you used the original pump the clearances are going to be larger than a brand new pump.
When the oil gets hot(thinner) the pump- if well worn (it will no longer actually unseat the relief ball) and may only be producing the pressure you see at the gauge… I would try to adjust the pressure relief to increase the pressure , but it sounds like the pressure #s you quoted are well below the regulation settings, which sounds like adjustment won't work due to the clearances…Even with the oil pressure #s you quoted, It sounds like it should run fine
Now if you installed a new pump and the crankshaft clearances are correct, you should be able to adjust the pressure. You could also try a new pressure relief spring, it is possible for it to lose tension.
I agree with Bob on the re installation of a thermostat, many engines need more time for the antifreeze to dissipate heat in the radiator, before being returned to the engine block
Good Luck my 2 cents
Thanks for the information Bob, it's interesting how the Greeks still influence modern society to this day
have an 80's MTD riding mower marketed as a (Co-Op Hydrostatic)
Don't think I'll top her up with water tho. Think the Hydro will make it static…
seriously when used with static, Hydrostatic drive is the correct name for a hydraulic infinitely variable drive system right??..maybe because water is not compressible the (hydro) part was adopted years ago?? But thought I'd also seen Hydrastatic..?? Tinbender got me thinking
