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I partially block off the radiator with a piece of carboard with a saucer sized hole in the middle. I also have a real mechanical temperature gage and from what I remember, a 160F or 180F thermostat. I've got the gage rotated so that the needle is straight up at the thermostat opening temp.
I brought the old one to an auto parts store and picked the closest one they had. I have no idea what the PN is but I know they seem to have a whole ceiling to pick from.
Mike – sent you the material. Are you all set now? How about others whom I sent it to….was it helpful?
OK congrats on the Wallenstein hoe. Wish I had one. My Jinma 284 had two remotes on the back. If I closed off the valve in the front of the seat I could run a logsplitter off these connections but the three point hitch became isolated and could not go up or down. Right after that I added two “real live” remotes to the tractor to run logsplitter, hydraulic toplink, etc.
Search this site for my info on the remotes. I can send you schematics and parts list. An easier way is to talk to Ronald at Ranch Hand who is a sponsor on this site. They're outstanding and can probably set you up with an almost turnkey hydraulic solution.
Sure you can run the hoe off those OEM connectors but it's not ideal. I've read that they are really meant to power a dump trailer needing a cylinder power up and drain.
I'm sorry but this site is not really easy to post pictures for me. I can send you pictures of my own remotes privately or you can find them on another site easily.
Good luck and stay connected!
Roy,
I self imported and installed an HW04X frame mounted hoe last fall so my experience might help you out.
I carefully removed the entire wooden and metal parts of the crate while being careful that it would not fall over sideways. Then I got the pump and hydraulics all working OK. If you plan to use your existing tractor hydraulics, the idea is the same.
Once I had the hydraulics running and connected to the hoe, I used the joysticks to carefully position the hoe for final attachment to the tractor. Since it was my first time, it sounds easier than it actually was but still not difficult with patience. I was finally able to coaxe all the parts to come together without any problems.
Good luck.
I imported my HW04X subframe mounted 7 foot hoe directly from Jinma myself. It included the pump and tank. I'm certain they buy the hoe from someone else because the quality was nowhere near that of the tractors. Jinma was pretty good to me about replacing the problem parts right away.
If you buy one of these Chinese hoes, be sure the dealer stocks spare parts, especially if you have startup problems like I did.
Joe, I'm in China now and sent the email pkg a couple of times but the outgoing email times out. If you don't get it, I'll resend when I'm back home in a few days.
If you get 5 copies of the same email….
What's wrong with this thread? Why are there two of them? Does this site offer instructions anywhere about uploading photos. I tried to help this thread recently and expressed my confusion about photos. Result: no answer and now we have duplicate threads.
Why is CTOA so difficult?
I'm no expert but my HW04X ties the subframe from the rear directly to the loader. The result is that the tractor bellhousing sees little or no tensile/torsional stress (such as tendency to break tractor in half).
The subframe should manage all downward, lateral, torsional and fore/aft forces so if you plan on using the bucket as a stablizing anchor you should plan on a rigid connection from the rear subframe directly to the loader frame. The entire subframe should be rigid and allow no looseness or flexing.
I like the axle housing anchor point..keep up the good work.
