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Good idea, but I read somewhere, and have been following it, to raise front wheels with loader. I've been raising front with loader/toothbar embedded in the ground.
Most of my BH work is trenching so I actually spend little time on the seat before moving the tractor again. So…the seat is not all that important as long as I can easily use the controls. If I were digging stumps and spending a lot of time without moving the tractor the seat comfort would be more important.
The swivel device from Jinma raises the seat around 3-3/4″. It has a locking pin and should not be used without the pin because the seat & driver load rests on the bearings. The bearings have been known to fall out if the pin isn't used because it's the pin that supports the weight.
I'll gladly sell my new swivel.
Len,
I hope you noticed in the TBN thread they sent me the wrong BH. I self imported it, along with other items, and specified an HW03X but they sent the HW04X which is a seven foot BH.
The frame is rugged and easy/on off via special brackets I acquired from Affordable. The brackets were leftovers in stock and I was luck to find them.
My only problem with this frame and swivel seat setup are:
- The controls are too far away from the swivel seat setup. The seat tracks do not allow the seat to travel far enough to reach the controls. Even if I turned the controls around (like RonMar), I've still got the elevation problem as in (2) below.
- The second problem is one of height. Even if the swivel seat could travel far enough, it's too high.
- The third problem is that there's not quite enough space to add a second rear facing seat. I recently dug around 300 feet of trench and had to do something so I laid a 2X6 across the fenders and it turned out to be the right height as well as the right distance from the controls. Since the BH is now off the tractor for the winter, I've got time to figure out a better solution.
The message here is that if you are building your own frame you really have to think out where and how the seat will be positioned relative to the controls.
I resized the photo and uploaded it but it doesn't show up. If somebody can walk me through the picture posting, I'll gladly post it again.
I'd build it from wood and have the local shop make it from readily available stock such as channel iron, square tubing, etc. After tacking, I'd make a test fit before final welding.
My own HW04X subframe wouldn't be difficult to copy (and improve).
If it were me, I'd remove the thermostat and do two things:
- Run tractor without it to see any difference
- Put the thermostat on the stove in a pan of water and heat it up to see when/if it opens.
Bob, Thanks.
I'm happily wrestling with the HW04X subframe to mate to older Jinma 284 and, with lots of great help from Tommy and his staff at Affordable, I should be “good to go soon”. In spite of guarantees from Jinma whose factory I've personally visited, the subframe didn't quite fit. It's an adventure leading to a positive result soon.
Today I bought the 5 gallons from NAPA but it looks like I'll need another and it won't go to waste. I'll end up, properly and hopefully, starting a new thread on this one: Mounting a late model frame mount HW04X to an older Jinma 284.
