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I'm now setting up my own self import HW04X frame mounted hoe. Does anyone know if a NAPA 5 gallon pail will fill the tank properly as well as the cylinders? I sent the manuals to Slingshot but still have not figured out how much fluid I'll need.
The HW03 manual says to fill tank to 4/5:
2）Operation of HW03 series backhoes
After
HW03 series backhoe connected with tractor, the following points need attention
before operation:
- A.
Check
tractor and make sure tractor in regular working situation. - B.
Fill
lubricating oil in every oil site of backhoe. - C.
Fill
hydraulic oil into four fifths of hydraulic oil tank.
Don't want to steal the thread.
Tommy's right, especially from his deep experience and we're seeing that now in this thread.
I'm not the average case in that I spend around 8 wks per year in China and bought my hoe factory direct at a price where I'm willing to deal with problems.
Back to original thread…..
I've been watching this with great interest and admire the patience of those involved. Ironically, my own self-import frame mounted Jinma hoe is arriving next week and I hope to not repeat this nightmare. A Jinma dealer friend, Bolton Power, is coming over with his own pressure relief valve/gage setting gizmo so that we start off on the right foot. He's been advising me for a long time that the China hoes are quite powerful and he usually sets the relief pressure on the low side, especially for my “284”.
My pump is made to fit the tractor via the blockoff plate above the PTO but I won't take any chances.
Again, I admire the patience and teamwork I've seen on this thread.
I admire the patience and persistence from all of you. At the same time, it seems your supplier, who made money on this, has provided you no support at all? Who sold you this? Maybe there's a lesson learned to not buy from this company?
I've been watching this closely because my own HW03 BH will arrive next week. I'm mostly interested in the hoe setup, flushing etc.
Relative to the bracket for resisting the pump torque, I don't want to interfere with Bob's excellent advice; however, some thoughts are as follows:
- It seems like a stout bracket could attach to two of the four bolts that are set back from those four closest to the PTO inlet. The bracket would attach to any two that are one above the other via longer bolts to accomodate it. If the bracket was perhaps 3/8″ thick X 1″ width and then enough length to fit up between the top lift mount “ears”, it would be stout and have long leverage.
- By forming the bracket with two offsets it might do the job. The first offset is to angle it or jog it “hockey stick like” , then a “return” to bring it directly under those ears. Then a second offset would bring it closer to the tractor and make up for that space. It could be first made from carboard and then brought to a fab shop.
- Another solution could be used to keep the pump from falling off. I'm surprised the pump PTO opening doesn't have the lock or ball detent to securely hold it onto the male PTO.
I hope this helps everyone and maybe someone can post the schematic? I have a 30 year hydraulics background but could not have added the front and rear remotes and made up all the hoses without the help of 3RRL on TractorByNet.
I use the rear remotes to plug in my logsplitter and I use the front remotes to angle my loader mounted snowplow.
Making your own hoses is so simple and after adding all the Prince stacking valves and Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) I've had no leaks at all. I keep extra hose and fittings on hand for repairs. If I can do this, anyone can do it.
All of this is especially useful for logsplitters, grapples, etc. Now that I just bought, factory direct from China, a backhoe, I will make up some “legs” for the logsplitter so that I can lug it to the splitting area, plug it in, and heat my house for free this winter.
- A.
