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David, thanks for the reply. The shut off at the pump is actuated by a cable, all appears to operate okay on the outside of the pump. The symptoms are if the shut off was in the shut down mode, fuel to the injector pump, no fuel out.
Yes, I’m very interested in what you have done. Can you post it here, or would e-mail be better?
Alright, new brakes, new steering clutches and its all back together and running. For the most part it steers okay, still making adjustments on brakes and clutch linkage. The linkage geometry is unable to make the sequential clutch/brake operation as good as it should, as Bob Rook has stated more than once. If the machine proves itself to be worthy of more investment I’ll probably look seriously at linear actuators for the clutches. Bob, thanks for the support, it has been fun (except when temps got down to single digits.)
Thanks Bob for the reply and good advice. After three days of pushing, pulling and turning, I was able to finally get the input shaft thru the clutch plate. Perseverance pays off again. Should have separated the input shaft thru the inspection hole in the bellhousing. Next is replacing the brake bands. Thanks again
I guess what I’m asking is does anyone have a trick to align the clutch plate so the spline of the input shaft will slide in.
In order to make repairs to transmission stud bolts that had become stripped I slid the transmission backward four or five inches. After repair had been satisfactory completed I attempted to slide trans forward into bellhousing. Clutch plate must have moved during the removal of trans. I removed trans completely, separated the input trans shaft and still was not able to shove input shaft into clutch plate. It appears to me that the bellhousing will not come out from the rear, leaving me with an engine removal? Tried loosing pressure plate bolts also. Any ideas?
I was able to push the final drive/steering clutch box away from transmission with small jack between trans and clutch box. All seems to progressing well. Pretty much like Mr. Rook and a person named tractor freak described to Hiltrac’s post in Sept. 2011 on this website. It appears that my problem primary stems from moisture in the clutch box, rust freezing clutch discs and through out bearing. Plan on replacing all clutch discs/brake bands and appropriate seals, hopefully these items are available. Will know more come Monday. Again, THANKS BOB ROOK.
Yes we all did things when we were 22 that I wouldn’t do again, and then again there were many things that I wouldn’t mind doing again. But we must keep going forward. This steering clutch case has a flange that fits up to the transmission case (bevel gear case in catspeak). Studs come out of transmission and nuts hold flange to trans. Tomorrow I’ll try removing the steering clutch case on the other side, see if it moves after removing the eight nuts. If it does than I can assume my mental picture of this assembly is correct and maybe the clutches are holding this tight. Stay with me Bob, I appreciate the help.
The heli coil will probably be my option for the trans stud problem. Thanks for the video, most informing. Today I was able to move the swing shaft with the swing arms forward out of the way. Removed all the nuts and bolts that hold the clutch box to the transmission, tried to separate the two, but was unable to get any separation. Any ideas, maybe a porta power, I’m mostly concerned about doing damage with my lack of expertise. It’s still fun.
Okay, some very useful info, won’t get back on this till wed. Thanks for the warning about hidden dangers. I will give this a good amount of time and study before proceeding. I was successful with moving the wishbone forward three inches using some pipe to role it on. The bad news is that upon more inspection, the studs that bolt transmission to bellhousing won’t take thread. I bought this machine for a dollar, should I try and get my money back?
