timkirby

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  • in reply to: 3 pt.Backhoe #45503
    timkirby
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      I have owned the 7 foot version (BH7600) of this backhoe with a 16″ bucket for one year. Although I only have logged about 10 hours of use on the unit so far, I am quite pleased with the quality of the backhoe and how it performs. It is a “build to print” version of the LITW backhoe built in China. Next week I will be starting a big project with my backhoe. If I discover anything alarming, I’ll post in this thread.

      From my experience, the backhoe does very well digging through clay soil, but not so great in shale. Mine is mounted on a subframe.

      I agree that it doesn’t make sense to purchase a used backhoe for more than a new one costs.

      Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

      in reply to: oil changes #45501
      timkirby
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        For me its every 75 hours or yearly. It generally turns out to be a yearly oil change in the spring.

        Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

        in reply to: Jinma Ring Gear #37976
        timkirby
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          I had the same issue (starter not engaging the flywheel) with my 2004 Jinma 284. The problem was more prevalent in the warm weather. I tried cleaning the starter and added a pilot relay but neither of those measures fixed the problem. Ultimately I bought an upgraded starter from Affordable Tractor and the problem has not reoccured since.

          Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

          in reply to: Jinma 284 – clutch pedal free play increasing #37969
          timkirby
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            Well I removed the front loader & bracket to gain access to the clutch bell housing. First step was to label each of 3 PTO adjustment and clutch finger adjustment points. Using a clutch adjustment procedure I found on another tractoer website, I adjusted the clearance on the PTO adjustment nuts to 0.035″. Prior to adjustment the clearances ranged from 0.036″ to 0.048″.

             

            ALong the way I noticed that I had a lot of rotational freeplay between the clutch external linkage arm and the clutch crossshaft, so I pulled out the rollpin that holds them together. The pin came out in pieces, so It had fractuired. I put in new rollpins, an outer M8 pin and an inner M5 rollpin. I had replaced the rollpins five years ago with high quality american made rollpins, so apparently even this is not a permanent solution

             

            Before beginning the clutch finger to throwout bearing adjustment, I adjusted the external clutch linkage (clevis & threaded rod) to about midpoint in its adjustment range. I made a 1/16″ feeler gage out of a strip of 1/16″ stainless steel and used that to set the clutch finger to throwout bearing clearance. This yielded about 1″ of clutch pedal freeplay.

             

            I'm happy to report that both the main and pto clutches are working well again. The PTO is now completely disengaged with about one inch of pedal movement remaining. Also, there was no dust in the bell housing and the clutch fingers and throwout bearing seemed fine.

             

            The clutch linkage is clearly a weak point in the tractor. Does anybody have a better solution than harder rollpins? I would pay big bucks for a cross shaft and external linkage arm with splines rather than rollpins.

            Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

            in reply to: Jinma 284 – clutch pedal free play increasing #37887
            timkirby
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              I did have the roll pin shear two years ago and installed hardened American made roll pins at that time. I checked play at that point and it looked good.

               

              Okay Tommy, I'll try adjusting the clutch. Is the procedure posted by Spiker on Johnstractor website still the definitive document on adjusting the Jinma clutch or are there other wirteups I should be referencing in addition to the procedure by Spiker?

              Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

              in reply to: Replacing rubber boot on front drive shaft tubes #37240
              timkirby
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                Don't know why I didn't see this earlier, but the cross-member is easily removed by just removing the bolts that attach it to the FEL bracket and transmission then sliding it back till it is clear of the FEL bracket. With the cross-member out of the way, the drive shaft is easily removed by compressing it toward the front axle till it unmates from the rear coupler then lowering the axle shaft to clear the transfer case. At that point the axle shaft is easily separated from the front coupling.

                Upon inspecting the drive shaft, I see the splines on the front of the drive shaft are significantly deformed, probably from over-torqueing the front axle. Both front and rear couplers and transfer case output shaft look fine. I decided to replace the drive shaft now rather than risk complete failure of four wheel drive later.

                I don't know what suprises await when I put it all back together.

                Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

                in reply to: Replacing rubber boot on front drive shaft tubes #37236
                timkirby
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                  Well, this evening I removed the clamps holding the rubber boot and collapsed the two halves of the tube over the 4×4 drive shaft, exposing the couplings on both ends. I slid back the rubber boot covering the front coupler and the circlip fell out in two pieces. Suprisingly, all 6 steel balls were in place in the coupler.

                   

                  I could not figure out how to remove the drive shaft. I can't compress the drive shaft enough to unmate it from the front coupling. I can compress the drive shaft sufficiently to unmate the rear coupler from the transfer case output shaft, but the cross member & rear tube section restrict how far I can move the drive shaft up, down and sideways and don't have enough wiggle room to remove it. So, what is the secret for getting the 4×4 drive shaft out?

                  Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

                  in reply to: When does a ball joint need replaced #36736
                  timkirby
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                    I apologize for taking so long to close the loop on this issue, but I did adjust the slop out of the ball joint as instructed by Tommy and it is now as good as new. Thanks Tommy for your help.

                    Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

                    in reply to: Tire Chains #36735
                    timkirby
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                      I need tire chains on my Jinma 284 (rear wheels only) when the snow is deep and/or there is a coating of ice beneath the snow. I find that under those conditions chains are necessary to safely navigate the hilly roads that I plow. This winter in the first time in the last 3 or 4 years that I have needed the chains. They are heavy, expensive and a pain in the neck to put on but they are very effective. If correctly installed I don't think they will damage the tractor. Chains can, however, chew up the surface they are passing over.

                      Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

                      in reply to: When does a ball joint need replaced #36405
                      timkirby
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                        Thanks guys. Had no idea the ball joint was adjustable. I shall give it a try.

                         

                        Tim

                        Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade

                      Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 11 total)