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I may get one if I can find one at a yard sale or something like that, this has been out of the ordinary. People here are comparing it to a 1993 storm season but this is way more snow. The 1993 storm was a 4 foot dump in November, then below freezing temps all the way until April kept the snow on the ground all winter. This is a snow dump, day after day after day. Go to http://www.KTVZ.com and check out all the roof collapses. One was a former mill building that had 7 Million worth of trucks and RV’s in it that are now scrap, another was a Fed Ex warehouse, another mill in Prineville, and scariest of all the entire roof of an elementary school gym landed on the floor of the building. Thank God nobody was in it at the time.
No snowblower Bob, with a gravel driveway I’d be afraid of flinging rocks everywhere. I have a 94 Polaris Sportsman 400 I need to get back in running shape (I rebuilt the carb, it’s on the workbench) and work on setting up a plow this summer. Here’s a few more pics, the first one is our Subaru I’ve woke up to most mornings to clean off to go to work. The second is the third time clearing a path to the chicken coop to take care of the ladies in picture 3 :good: That path had a spur going over to the patio and back porch, two times was enough for clearing that one and I gave up. There are spurs off the previous pic going to the driveway, the shipping container, the tractor shed, and the garage. I think the total is more like a 1/4 mile, easy. Then three times cutting out a few parking spaces at the store. :wacko: We’re finally supposed to get a break, below zero tonight, warm enough to rain/sleet next week. :yahoo:
Yeah, I think the manual calls for warm up to above 70°C before working the tractor hard. I rarely see temps that warm unless it is really hot out or when I had a radiator leak and let it get too low. At -10F I bet I can block the whole radiator and it won’t overheat. I know I sure won’t!
Unfortunately I know what you mean :yes: I’ve shoveled about 1/8 mile (at least) of paths and trails like this twice, and they’re all buried again. I wasn’t ready for this, so they’ve all been done with a snow shovel :negative: This has been going on for a week, we’re supposed to have a heat wave up to 27 with freezing rain, then back to below zero and snow for another week. I’m running out of energy to keep doing this, and I don’t think my cardiologist would be amused. Oh well, like they say, what doesn’t kill you, makes you wish it did! :whistle:
Amazon has one:https://www.amazon.com/LEVELING-Ford-Tractor-Industrial-Utility/dp/B00KB9SKIO
I copied your picture, uploaded it to google images, and found tons of places that carry it. Must say however, I’ve never seen one, but that doesn’t mean much :scratch:
Being that’s a Nortrac # I wonder if “C” is for California emissions and “E” is for Everyone else. :whistle:
I would expect 3-4 buck clear to have zero UV protection and last 6 months tops before turning flat and dull. Crazing in plastic is usually caused by excessive heat, or a cheap formula (no UV inhibitors) of plastic. Do the lenses have Ford logos or something like “TYC”? Maybe a Google search to see if it’s a common problem?
the one requires u/v light either natural or artificial ,I wonder if a halogen light with the glass lens u/v light filter taken out would work?
Or a Black light bulb?
Once the plastic is crazed there is only so much sanding and polishing will do. It will help but…. And you’re right about Ford being insanely proud of their parts, thus the price of aftermarket headlamps…http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2008,f-250+super+duty,6.4l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1440007,body,headlamp+assembly,10762
Keep in mind that as long as they’re CAPA certified insurance companies will use aftermarket lamps whenever they can get away with it, i.e. deer hit, your fault, the other guys fault if you let them, etc. For a model year 2008 I’d guess around 1/3 0f the trucks on the road have at least one aftermarket exterior lamp on them. :unsure:
I never realized how expensive some of these products can get. I had a detailer come in for a UV clearcoat product good for about 20 sets of lights:
http://www.prestaproducts.com/Headlight_Sealant__6_5_oz___137306-details.aspx I’m bringing a few cans in to keep in stock for him or anyone else that would otherwise have a 30 mile round trip to get a can.
SEM products has a similar OEM product: https://www.semproducts.com/refinish-uv-cured-clear/solaraytm-uv-clearcoat I can see the need for these even at the high price since you shake a can, squirt, and put it back away as compared to mixing catalyzed clear, putting it in a spray gun (which needs a compressor) then cleaning out your gun after 10 seconds use, all while parked in a dealers lot. :good:
Sorry David, after re-reading your post I see you’re talking about 2005-06 tractors. But yes there are at least different quality grades of plastics, amount of UV resistant chemicals in the make up, thickness, etc. I’m really not expecting any difference after polishing the tractor headlights, they aren’t damaged on the surface other than a thin clearcoat appears to have peeled off, they aren’t dull or cloudy, rather they appear to be thin plastic that has yellowed all the way through. I hope I’m wrong, but I doubt it.
