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Well that’s a bummer, I can open my 284 hood no matter where the ZL20 loader is. Does the loader physically prevent the hood from opening or does it just make it impossible to access the latch? If it was just a latch issue you could drill a hole in the handle and hook a piece of cable to it. If the tractor is out in bad weather and the battery is dead I take my charger cables and connect them to the starter and the frame, and don’t even bother opening the hood.
I don’t see what else it could be, you’ll have to take it apart to confirm. I would call or email any of the dealers that sell these. Keno does, not sure if Tommy at Affordable does but he’d sure be good for technical info at least.
Looking good. :good: 15-20 minutes should be all you need, it’s not like we’re heating up a Duramax.
Pretty sure I did away with the petcock, it’s only been right around 8 years to the day, and that whole flatlining episode a few years ago didn’t help matters either. :scratch: My motto these days is “Of all the things I’ve lost, I miss my mind the most” :wacko:
What has always kept me away from radiator hose type heaters is if they fail and leak you lose all your coolant. If they fail and overheat and melt your lower hose you lose all your coolant. Here are some crappy pics I just took, it’s around 20 and snowing right now and I’ll still look for better pics at work, but here’s these: As you can see the lower tank outlet goes to the block by the oil dipstick. The upper outlet went into a convenient plug at the water pump.Notice that hose wraps around the fuel filter heating the fuel as a bonus. Damn the oil filter looks disgusting! :negative:
I have pictures of my tank heater in this compooter somewhere, if I can’t find them I’ll post new ones tomorrow. This thing makes the valve cover warm in about 15-20 minutes at 0!
I have a Quanchai 3 cyl in my 12/07 Jinma 284, no problems so far, but I only have 120 hours on it. I’d want at least 1,000 hours before I’d comment on dependability. One observation, a mechanic friend of mine commented that the injection pump is a clone of the Bosch pump on his 1967 Mercedes. :scratch:
Here’s how I did mine. The Yellow wire is the lead from the switch that used to go to the glow plugs, it now energizes the solenoid. The Blue wire is a hot off the starter going through a 40 amp relay to the solenoid powering the glow plugs when the key switch energizes the solenoid. The only wire not shown is a black wire going from the far side of the solenoid to the glow plugs. Simple, effective. :yahoo:
