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” I would stay away from a water based polyurathane paint on liner if you do it yourself ,I did not have good luck with it and it was a valspar(ppg) product to.”
You need to use a two component (catalyzed) solvent based product at a minimum.
Just to be clear, Valspar and PPG are two separate companies. Interesting fact: Valspar opened for business two years after George Washington died, making it the oldest US paint company, and one of the oldest in the world.
The bedliners I sell are all solvent based urethane's. The best ones are polyurea and polyurethane hot sprayed coatings. Google polyurea and you'll see what I mean. As I said, if you have a spray-on bedliner shop in your area where application of these products is their main business, these are the best way to go. They make a good permanent cistern liner too.
I can't help with the cover but if you're going to use it as a truck I'd go for a spray on liner. The drop in liners are slippery as hell and rub against the bed rubbing the paint off, in spots leaving shiny metal. I haven't seen anyone use a drop in liner in years ( I installed hundreds of them in the 90's). I sell the Raptor spray in liner from UPOL that you or a bodyshop could do, they are tough but not as thick as the ones specialty bed liner shops spray in at around 300 degrees.
Hi Rich. Yes the reservoir is full, I check it often because of the one leaking fitting. When it's low the steering wheel turns but not the wheels, so the blown seal makes sense.
Thanks for posting how things turned out and not leaving everyone wondering what happened. Glad you got it fixed.
I would NEVER use form-a-gasket or anything like it to fix a fuel leak. A general rule of thumb, if it didn't come from the factory with it, don't use it. Me personally, I would follow chichi's advise. A 397 piece Harbor Freight metric o ring kit is all of $7.49. It has all the sizes for the loader valves, and if it has one for chichi's check valve, it most likely has one for your check valve. How did your old o-ring look? If a new one the correct size doesn't fix the problem, something else is the problem and hookim pucky in a tube isn't going to be a safe fix.
A good one will do that
“You mean I've been putting egg salad on terminals for years for nothing?Seriously I just use grease.”
Maybe that was taken the wrong way. I was making fun of all the homemade tricks being posted for preventing battery terminal corrosion, certainly not trying to poke fun at someones problem. So what was the final outcome, a loose terminal on a cable or bad connection on the ground cable?
Do you have a radiator shop nearby that can repair it?
December 27, 2013 at 3:31 pm in reply to: how to remove the piston in a 2006 Jinma 354 hydraulic 3 pt. hitch? #36624For some reason there appears to be a limit to the number of digits it will allow to be transferred. If you manually type the entire url in yourself without pasting anything it will let you do that.
Cosmoline with carbon is that wonderful stuff GM likes to coat frames and subframes with that needs to be washed off to weld or heat, messy stuff. Vaseline rubbed into your face before spray painting makes cleaning up a breeze, and keeps chemicals from soaking into your pores.
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