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Here's a related problem. The tach on my Jinma 284 has been hanging up at around 1700 rpm. I'll start it and it's working again, look down after awhile and it's stuck again. Any ideas?
Another job for the forks this weekend. The first pic was back in December, it snowed before I could finish things up. Today the cooler is in place, an easy one man job.
This week I'll work on plumbing it in.Like the “Tractor operation and Maintenance” right above this, there was spam posing as a question here, along with all the “test” crap.
I see guests can no longer ask a question because of these A-Holes, that's a shame, and the spam makes the site look like it's been tagged with graffiti.
They are actually studs that you will have to replace (if it’s what mine has). If there is anything sticking out Snap On, Matco, Mac make a tool to grab the outside and remove them. Seems to me Sears makes one too. Also you can centerpunch and drill a 1/8″ pilot hole, then get some left handed 1/4 or 5/16 bits and use an Easy Out. Sometimes just the left handed bits will loosen and draw out the studs. Better you than me
When I broke mine I snapped the crappy welds on the bracket instead, much easier to repair.Edit: Pepage beat me to the post, his idea will work too if you have a hot enough welder, and you won't have to buy any tools.
All I know is either the 800 lbs. the Chinese ZL20 loader is rated at is more than the tractor can handle or it lifts a lot more than 800 lbs. I attempted to move a pallet with 1/2 cord of truss scraps on it. It lifted it just fine, but flattened the two front tires and lifted the rear off the ground even with a box scraper back there.
