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Lake Billy Chinook is just up the road apiece, the only lake in the US that I know of that is pristine enough for Bull Trout to spawn naturally (they need really, really clean water). Bet I could get my hands on some really, really clean creek water!
Oh and you can fish for them, 1 per day, minimum 28″.
Bob is right, you should have shear bolts on the tines, just like my 6hp walk behind tiller. My Lienbach post hole auger uses 3/8″ grade 5 sheer bolts just after the PTO, they get a lot of use around here. If you were to put in a slip clutch it would still go on the tiller, not between the splines of the PTO.
I’ve had mine since 2008 without any problems, and it ran in a Honda for 20+ years before that. That’s a good sized switch for the amount of current going through it, Think about it, it's made for starter current, not a little 10 or 12 gauge wire for glow plugs, and sometimes folks crank on the starter for 20 seconds at a time. I wouldn't worry about it.
Yep, if you have a wrecking yard nearby just about any Ford truck will have one mounted up by the battery, mine came out of a Honda that was being junked at the time we were putting the tractor together. I used these for hot leads for trailers many times before too,with the energizing wire going to the ignition on circuit. That way if the trailer is hooked to a parked truck it can't run the trucks battery down.
What I called a 40 amp relay is in fact a circuit breaker, I can't seem to edit text, the text didn't show up when I hit edit, just the picture
Sorry for the confusion
The blue wire comes up from the starter hot lug to the 40 amp relay. The black wire from the relay to the solenoid.Another black wire from the solenoid to the glow plug buss bar. The yellow wire is the original wire from the starter switch to the glowplugs, it’s now only energizing the solenoid which uses very little current saving the starter switch and giving you plenty of juice for the glow plugs. Same thing Bob said with a picture.It's not just the Chinese either. My PT Cruiser has two dead cylinders, burnt valves it appears. I'm thinking, there's a zillion Neons out there with the same engine, wrong
. After a little research it seems Chrysler made at least seven variants of the 2.0-2.4 block and even more different heads. I'll pull it apart and if things are worse than I think I'll look at auctions for a newer PT turbo wrecked anywhere but the front and swap out the subframe complete with running gear and computer and gain 100hp.
I see what you mean Larry. Checking out the website the reviews have gone from 20 or more to 6. Quite a few of the missing reviews had the part number. If you download the manual there is a good picture of the adapter and how to use it, but again the part number has been removed. ” On some implements you will need the adapter” ” But we won't give you a part number or a source for it!”
I don't have a Tractor supply nearby, and have not used this piece of equipment from Northern Tool. That said it's my understanding that all these (including Harbor Freight, John Deer, Kubota, etc.) are all built to the same ANSI specs. They will all fit your tractor and will all fit implements that are made to the ANSI dimensions. If you have older or home made stuff they may not fit any brand until modified to these specs. I think you would be safe with either of these companies products.
