Tinbender

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  • in reply to: Re: Ist Time Valve Lap #32586
    Tinbender
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      The ol' never ending chore list. Nice job on the doorcool  I get up at 5:00, have breakfast and work on chores 'till 8:30 and go to work. Come home and do it again 'till dark-thirty. This time of year there is just not enough time in the day. The kid has her last day of school today which means I HAVE to have her pool put up tonight, then on to the six months worth of projects to finish in the next threeroflmao

      in reply to: Re: Ist Time Valve Lap #32568
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        Those liners look goodcool

        Bob, my only gripe with my HF engine is I need to clean the carb, I have to prime it to start, but it starts right up and runs great even at -10 degrees. A really good copy of a Honda engine. Leaving fuel in it all year is my fault, and most likley the reason the carb needs attention. Should have picked up another one a few weeks back, they had them fo $79.00 on close out, going with another brand now.

        in reply to: Re: Ist Time Valve Lap #32565
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          The engine that came with the log splitter worked for awhile then quit one day. Took the head off to find the intake valve stuck open. I lapped it and checked it with dye, put it back together and it ran 6-7 more times before it did the same thing. Then I noticed that the valve guide was shot, and the engine was so old the local small enging shop could not pull up the numbers on it. 

          I need to pull the Brigs 5hp I.C. on the rototiller apart as soon as I'm done with it for the year, it's popping out the exaust once warm like it has a burnt valve. Hopefully it's got some carbon stuck in it and I can lap the valves and be done.hmmm I doubt it, but one can hope, right?laugh

          in reply to: Re: Ist Time Valve Lap #32554
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            Yep, the wife picked it up at a garage sale for $35.00. The old Briggs 4hp needed more than lapping on the intake valve so I threw on a Harbor Freight 6hp. Set your logs against the screw sideways and she splits real good cool

             

            Edit: gabmuks, did you mean valve adjust?

            in reply to: Re: Ist Time Valve Lap #32552
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              Ok. Click on the tree icon for “insert image” a box pops up, click “browse”. Simplepress file manager pops up, this is where you can store all your pictures. Click upload tad at top, then browse at lower left. The pictures you upload have to be shrunk in paint, picassa etc. to less than 500kb. Click upload, then close. the first insert image box is still there, click browse, find your picture in the file manager and upload it. I know this sounds complacated but after loading a few pics it becomes second nature. 

              in reply to: Looking for a dozer and operator in California #32546
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                I was raised in Oakland. Dang, my commute never looked like that! Nice Placehailkinghailkinghailking

                in reply to: Orig Key Switch gone bad #32542
                Tinbender
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                  I've not had a problem with the stock switch but think for the price another stock switch would be “plug and play”.hmmm

                  Not to deadhorse but for those new here this is what we did when assembling the tractor. Like BCMike I thought the wire going to the intake heater circuit was too small and thought it should go through a relay (solenoid).The solenoid and wire came off a junk Honda, the circuit breaker and connectors were in my tool box. No major mods to the wiring, just ran a #12 wire from the starter to circuit breaker and clipped the #16 going to the preheater and used it to energize the solenoid.The tractor came with glow plugs and a buss bar but weren't being used, we added them to the circuit.

                  in reply to: Engine Knocking #32540
                  Tinbender
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                    I know I'm being hopelessly optimistic but it can't hurt now to pull some caps and see what's there.frown

                    in reply to: Engine Knocking #32537
                    Tinbender
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                      Those metal shavings are/were your crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Re-read the reply to your first question. Look at the connecting rods and caps, see if they're marked, if not take a sharp punch and make a mark on the side of the rod and cap. One mark on each for cylinder #1, two marks for #2 etc. Pick out a rod or two that do not have their pistons all the way at the top and remove the two bolts holding the rod cap, take it off and inspect.

                      Just wondering, are you sure you tightened the oil filter when you replaced it? Did you compare the threads between the old and new filter? The fact you continued to run the tractor after it was knocking can't be goodfrown, with luck you still may be able to save the crankshaft without taking it out, which will require splitting the tractor.

                      in reply to: Trailer for Tractor and Jeep #32528
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                        Looked at the tag tonight Bob. It's a 16'x7'  7,000# W/225-75-15 tires. Electric brakes on the rear axle. Asking price is $1,000.00, going to a good cause. A recent widow, her husband died of a heart attack in his sleep, she lost their house and has the same disease as my wife. I won't quibble over price and think I can make payments.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 571 through 580 (of 750 total)