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Here is a picture of adjusting the valves. There is a feeler gauge between the rocker and the top of the valve stem. Loosen the locking nut, adjust the valve lash, and re-tighten the nut. I do not know the specs for your engine. Mine is a Quanchai, not too many out there.Edit: Now I know how to post pictures! Stay the hell away from my laptop with windows 7 and post from work on the XP.
One of our other members, Bert, has a 454 and went through the same thing. There is a flat plate on the back of the cylinder head, his was warped allowing coolant to enter an oil passage. You may want to P.M. him to get the details.
#1 I would not reuse it.
#2 Break them loose and re-torque one at a time. If your manual does not show a sequence for torquing the bolts I would start at the center and work my way out, one on one side in front of center, then diagonally to one rear of center, etc.
#3 Nothing to remove, but you will have to watch the valves as you turn the engine to find TDC. Remember to pull the engine shutoff cable out and use something to hold it there. Being your first time I would highly suggest finding a competent mechanic friend to assist you.
It's under “Tractor operation and maintenance”, page two, March 16th. I tried but failed to link it.
There was a post on this very same subject a week or two ago, it should be easy enough to find.
The recommended time for head re-torque is 50 hrs, so if you don't know if that was done I'd sure do it now. As for the valve adjustment we found three valves out of adjustment, two VERY loose before starting the tractor for the first time. Like clutch adjustment these are things that should be standardized and easily repeatable at the factory but for some bizarre reason they are not.
Ron, a tooth bar is on the wish list, along with the grapple, hopefully sometime this summer.
When I checked on 1×3 tubing .120 wall (1/8″) was the thickest they had. That's the same thickness as the ZL20 bucket, pretty weak.
While that may hold up carrying a pallet it may bend with a heavy object chained to them, I figure. That's why I decided to go with the 3×1-1/2 x 3/16. While I'm hoping to be pleasantly surprised that the bucket won't bend I'm not holding my breath.Hey, at least we'll know where to reinforce it right?
Checked material cost today. 3″ x 1-1/2″ x 3/16″ tubing @ $4.60 per foot. Oddball pieces from the steel yard scrap pile @ 26 cents a pound. Add 12' of 1/4″ or 5/16″ chain and a couple small binders = time to get out the chop saw and get to work
Here is the cheap pair (1): http://cgi.ebay.com/Pallet-For…..4aa01ee980
a mid priced set but the rating is overkill (2): http://cgi.ebay.com/Loader-For…..3f08b7a470
these look nice, clamp with the option to chain (3): http://cgi.ebay.com/Clamp-Load…..45f9c96c8d
The problem with the first two is they are only 2″ wide. The problem with the 2nd and 3rd is they are rated 3200# more than the loader and the weight will be out front, further reducing the lifting capacity of the loader. After pricing material to make what I mentioned earlier if it doesn't pencil out I'll go with door #3
