Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
If I'm cutting trees for firewood the 18″ works the best for limbing, anything smaller makes you climb between the branches you're limbing too much. I'm with Larry when it comes to cutting trees to length on the ground. At first I wondered why everyone else brought 24, 28 or 30″ bars when the lodgepoles we were cutting were no more than 15″ across? One day leaning over with the 18″ saw answered that. At home I use the 18″ when I'm too far away from a cord, otherwise I have a cheap Poulan electric 10″ pole saw that detaches from the pole for hand limbing small branches, works great.
For Bob, there are small cordless lightweight chainsaws, don't think the batteries would last long though. How about a small generator for your Wen?
Try Affordable, Ranch Hand, or Keno Tractors under “our dealers” listed at the top of the page. They all will most likely have one in stock.
Good luck with that. The dealers listed here can sell you one, Northern Tools will sell you one for their Nortrac tractors (Jinma), but they are of limited use. That's why places like this site exist.
We have a business in town, Newhouse Mfg, that barring any copyright issues could whip up something like that in no time at all. http://www.newhouse-mfg.com/
Perhaps you have someone similar near you.
Edit: I e-mailed them after looking at their site, something to do with them being a big fan of Dan Quayle
That would be great Bob
I'm already dreaming of the next item on my wish list. A friend has a 2004 Dodge 3/4 ton 4WD diesel crew cab, leather interior and all the bells and whistles. 36000 miles on it, showroom shape one owner, for $20,000
If I can sell a few cars and come up with ten, then I'd stretch myself out and get a loan for the rest.I may just pass altogether. The six footer does not impress me much as far as build quality and features and is now going for $200.00. The five footer is a Land Pride, seems well built, and can be offset 12″ either way, but the minimum bid is $300.00 No doubt worth it, but I'm thinking the $300.00 would be better spent putting it toward the bucket grapple project, I can still do a lot with the box scraper. I still have two days to get off the fence.
These tractors use an “open center” hydraulic system. Simply put, fluid has to constantly flow from the pump to the reservoir, and back to the pump. Once you block the flow out of the pump, such as disconnecting the quick connects to the loader and not connecting the two hoses that went to the loader back together before starting the tractor, that would dead head the pump, destroying it. The Chinese quick connects that come from the factory are prone to failure, and while appearing to be connected, may at any time they deem fit, fail and block the flow through the hose, again dead heading the pump. Replacing these with quality quick connects, such as Pioneer brand, is cheap insurance. Some dealers do this on every tractor they sell, most don't. There is a post open right now discussing the installation of a relief valve on the pressure line coming out of the pump. These can be pre set or adjustable. When pressure builds to meet the relief valves threshold it will divert the fluid to a line you would run to the return tank, keeping the pump safe. Some brands of tractors have this feature from the factory, Jinma for costs or whatever reason chose not to put them on these tractors. With a relief valve installed the chances of dead heading are the same as the failure rate of the relief valve, about 0%.
As a side note I have not installed a relief valve, yet. I had an issue earlier with the loader valve that caused the dump function to fail, and if it was not corrected right away as I did, would have dead headed the pump. A relief valve would protect the pump in this instance. I got lucky and stopped the tractor right away and fixed the problem.
On your loader joystick valve block, on the opposite end from the joystick are two cans that look like over sized thimbles, held on by Allen screws. Take these off and you will see a spring under each one with a slot screw in the center of the spring holding them on. Make sure these are TIGHT. They are known to come loose from the factory and were the cause of my valve problem. A ten minute check that can save your pump. There is a smaller can on top of the valve, don't mess with that, It's your pressure relief valve for the loader circuit!
How are the hydraulics working? Have you checked the engine oil? I would be more inclined to think that something has caused your pump to blow and dump that much fluid into the engine. Maybe a factory quick connect dead headed your pump.
