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This is what I have, it's either this one or the 7200, but pretty sure it's this. Works great. I use a 9″, my soil is sandy for the first foot or so, then solid rock, so everything gets cemented in. http://www.everythingattachmen…..-l7300.htm
We're finally home from the show, and I have a question. I would like to share quite a few pics and thought something like photo bucket with a link would be the way to go. I've never used photobucket, I have Picasa on my computer but have never uploaded anything. Windows whatever it's called I've used but seems to be a pain. Any favorites out there?
I don't know what's worse, the 8:30AM till 10:00PM Saturday barking my products, or the four trips taking everything back to the store tonight Me pooped
Here's this:
http://www.best-used-tractors……anuals.htm
Did not have time to look at this site, hope this helps
March 18, 2011 at 2:37 pm in reply to: Re: Clutch problem after sitting for a couple of months #31698While you have it apart pull the bolts out of the back engine plate one at a time, clean and locktite them and re-torque, you'll be glad you did. If it's already leaking at all get a new gasket from Tommy.
Thanks, that's what I thought Larry. With my ground maybe I should look for a 3 Foot
Seriously though I would use this for the driveway and snow. If it was a fresh job I'd level with the box scraper first and finish with this.
I see the links don't go strait to the item. If you click on the first link, and click on “home and garden” on the left the 5' is at the bottom. The other two, generic, are on page two. Anyone have an opinion what that Land Pride 5' should be worth as far as a bid goes?
I just watch the valves, run it around once till the intake closes, and count how long (angle flywheel or crank needs to be turned) till the exhaust opens. Next time I split the difference. My mechanic friend has a more sophisticated way of doing it, don't recall the procedure though.
While I'm not sure what engine the Kama uses the procedure will be the same. Valve adjustments are made at TDC (top dead center), engine cold. Rotate by using a breaker bar on the crankshaft, you may have to remove the radiator to do this. If you have a compression release that will make turning it easier. Make sure to rig the fuel shutoff open! Being a diesel it can start just by rotating the engine! Look up AgTrac, they were selling these and may still be, but should know the specs if you can give them the numbers off the metal plate on your engine. Hope this helps.
P.S. When adjusting mine I was able to turn the flywheel with a pry bar through the loader cover plate as the loader had not been put on yet. If you don't have a loader that would save you from pulling the radiator.
Welcome from the Tinbender, best $15.00 you can spend. Not just engine info, but everything front to back. If it happens to your tractor, it has happened to someone else on this site before. A lot of cool mods too.
Gree, does it move or try to move at all in Hi Range? Or does it act like it is in netural? If it acts like it is in netural it may be a bent or broken shift fork for the Hi Range.
Back to the original post, after re-reading it appears this fellow has a problem with the Hi-Low range and is effectively in neutral when he shifts into Hi range.
I'm shooting for MPWA — Most Posts While Asleep
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