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Bob, I used to do that with minibike engines long, long ago. Heck, the small engine parts store sold the Permatex Copper Gasket Spray just for this purpose
We ran racing pistons with thin rings, trick clutches, all that good stuff.Didn't have to worry about coolant leaks!
I built and fixed minibikes for all the kids in the neighborhood when I was around 8 years old.
You should have seen the looks on the dads faces when the saw the “mechanic” their kids brought them to
I suspect that bolt was loose from day one. If you look closley at the block, head, and either side of the gasket around that bolt area you should see signs of a trail of coolant going from a water jacket into the cylinder. Maybe faint, but there somewhere. I would put the gasket back down, throw the head back on and install all the bolts around that cylinder and re torque them just to be satisfied that the one bolt will torque down, and nothing is wrong with the threads in the block. Dont try to reuse the gasket, this is not a “Spray copper paint on it and put it back together” Briggs and Stratton
If it were me knowing what I've seen on mine, I would assume it was sloppy assembly at the factory, get a new gasket set and re-assemble, adjust the valves, and see what happens.We are talking about the two springs opposite the joystick on the end of the valve underneath cans held on by Allen screws. These need to be TIGHT. One is on the end of the dump/curl valve, one at the end of the up/down. You can tighten these without removing the valve Assembly. There is another one on top, smaller. Don't adjust it, it is the pressure setting for the valve. You can remove that assembly to clean it if needed, just don't adjust it without a gauge in line.
I had this problem with mine, took the valve off, took it completely apart, changed the o-rings, all the problem was were these screws holding the springs on were loose, I later found old posts on this subject. At least I can say the valve is clean
When you dissembled the valve I take it you must have loosened the springs under the cans on the outside rear of the valve? If those screws holding the springs are loose (common) it will cause the exact problem you are describing.
I suspect the dealer list is not complete yet, found this on google http://www.agtractractor.com/
Been up for 24 Hr now with the flu, nothin' better to do
Once the gasket is leaking torquing is not an option. It is recommended these be re-torqued at 50 hrs. Look for signs of where the gasket failed, check for cracks in the block and head, most likely the gasket simply failed. I can't remember for sure but I believe I checked the head torque before starting mine for the first time since nothing else on these seem to be torqued or adjusted correctly at the factory. Now that they have a brand new factory maybe they spent a few bucks on torque wrenches
P.S. Take lots of pictures to help things go back together smoothly
Thanks Hal. I never had a problem shrinking pics with the paint program on my XP 'puter, but with this Win7 when I shrink them below 135kb, They look smaller than a postage stamp.
Hope this makes your day; figuring out this site is much eaiser than figuring out some of the interface changes between XP and 7
Yep, I come up with 94.068 using this table: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/fa…..eSpecs.htm
Check all connections first. Alt, voltage regulator, battery, fuses. Try the cheap/free stuff first. You can always take the alternator to O'reilly's and they will bench test it for free. A few folks have put a Delco internal regulator alternator on these, not much modifying to make one fit.
