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I mentioned the screws holding the springs at the opposite end of the joystick to someone having issues with the loader not working right awhile back, it’s worth a shot to check before you take the whole valve apart. When it happened to me the bucket didn’t want to dump, and I could hear the idle go down as it was deadheading the pump and stopped the tractor right away. These screws and springs are under the “thimble” looking caps at the end of the valve facing the front of the tractor. The springs are what return the valves back to center. If the screws holding them back off you get a deadhead condition. You’ll have to start there to take the valve assembly apart anyway.
You are correct Dave, I’ve been rolling the dice, so to speak. These tractors are copies of early tractors, with 1940’s technologies at that. I look at my Jinma as a Ford 8N if some newer technology like power steering, a diesel engine and 4 WD were added, but not much else.
I think the only thing that’s saved me so far was buying it in a crate and having a really good mechanic friend help put it together. He checked the bolt torque as well as the valve lash before we ever finished assembling the tractor and 2 out of 3 cylinders were out of spec. I wouldn’t have thought of checking that, that’s the difference between a mechanic and a bodyman I guess :unsure:
No, I’ve been run over with projects. Perhaps after I paint the 40′ Shipping Container and during our short fall season when I’m least likely to use it . I think I’m up to @170 hours now and I do want to get that out of the way and get the rear blade on it and get her ready for snow duty this winter. Give it a good pressure wash first and a complete service after the re-torque’s done. And a new seat and shift boot, those two are way overdue too.
Your transmission clicking issue I can’t help with other than suggesting you check all fluid levels to start. Here are some pics of rear controls. These are on my Dec 2007 tractor, I would think yours would be similar. The first picture is your 3 point up/down lever. The second is a knob under the front of seat that diverts fluid from the 3 point to the rear hydraulics (for a dump cart , log splitter, etc) . It’s rarely used. The third is for PTO speed.
A Kama 254 is a rebadged Jinma 254/284 . How are you at tracing wires? Do you have a simple test light? That would be good for testing fuses and the fuse box. Those are available at any parts store for -$5.00. An ohm meter would be good to have too as you could tell if a wire is a ground instantly without frying anything. (If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they usually have coupons for free ones) And if you suspect a wire is ,say, a headlight wire, with an ohm meter you can test your theories by checking the loose plugs at that end, to the plugs at the headlight to see if you have continuity. If so, your theory is correct. I’ll take a few pictures of the 3 point and PTO controls. Do you have a loader? Have you checked the level in the hydraulic fluid tank?
the only trouble with it is ,it is to pretty to use!
Don’t worry, it’s not going to get used much. My wife has MS, I just wanted to do something to cheer her up. It may get some flowers and a hand shovel to plant them every now and then, on days she feels up to it. It’s too hot for her to try to do anything when it’s in the 90’s like now, but when it gets back in the 60-70 range I hope it will get some use. She’s really happy with what I did for her, and that’s all that counts :good:
Another small project while waiting for parts. I’ve got new aftermarket European style glass headlamps and parking lamps, new rear springs since the old ones are sacked from 250,000 miles of thinking I have a Subaru Truck, and now waiting on a new fender. Perfect time to score some points with the better half. We’ve had this HF style wagon for almost 30 years and I could have replaced it with a new one for $50 bucks, but what fun would that be ? :wacko: Painting the outside and axle mounting hardware was easy, sandblasting the rusted, pitted inside of the tub and etching, priming and tintable bedlining that part took awhile, then blasting the old wood sides with walnut shells and giving them 2 coats of Redwood stain and 4 coats of automotive clear finished off the job. Now on the days she’s up to it she can garden in style :good:
I’m no hydraulic mechanic by any means but the only logical answer I can think of is a blown rear seal on the pump. How else could the fluid get into the engine? If it were me I would take the pump back apart, check for runout at the rear of the shaft (maybe a bad bushing or bearing) and look for wear on the shaft where the seal sits. If everything checks out put a new seal in and reinstall it and put a gauge inline to look for a dead head situation. Check it immediately after starting the engine. I’d like to hear from Bob Rooks or someone else who actually knows their way around hydraulic systems but that’s where I would start.
Is I mentioned above, the switch appears to be OK. I checked the clutch switch first, since it’s out in the weather, it was fine. Before replacing I wanted to make sure the switch was bad, so I pulled it out still wired up and tested it. There is power going to the wire for the solenoid, but no power at the solenoid. I haven’t had a chance to chase it down yet, I need to invent the 40 hour day :mail: I fired it up with the screwdriver, moved a large rabbit hutch I need to repair. and parked it for now. It’s moved everything I needed moved for the garden for the year :yahoo:
If I’m even close to remembering putting my 284 together it takes around 3 Gallons. A couple liters shouldn’t effect it much at all, especially during the summer, and I doubt you raised the AW32 to more than AW 36 or so only adding a couple liters, JMHO. Bob Rooks will be more knowledgeable in this department
