Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Never mind, I took it loose and tested it and it has power at the switch to the solenoid, but not at the solenoid. More tracing after I get home from work. Speaking of which, I normally try not to compete with my customers but since none of them do odd jobs like soda machines…
Well that’s a relief, I thought I broke it with those pictures of my shattered bumper :wacko:
Since Costco started selling Subaru Pressure Washers :yes: But really, I think this qualifies as a “Do it yourself ” Project, and not for the faint of heart. :good:
With all the time and head scratching it took me to figure that out on mine I’m just glad I was able to share what I learned :good:
I had that problem with a ZL-20 a few years back. At the opposite end from the joystick are there two caps on the valve that look like thimbles? If so take those off and you will find a spring under each one with a screw in the center holding them on, the offending control will have a loose screw. Tighten them up and your problem should go away.
I’ll have to get him over to back it up :yes: I used to be good at backing up cars with a tow truck 40 years ago, but even then the steering was locked, but we had a yard behind another business where everything had to be backed up a narrow 75 foot driveway, you learned to be quick about it. Guess I’ll have to practice… :unsure:
Well it’s home. Hooked up to the pickup with tow lights and a safety chain to make it somewhat legit to be on the road, only 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 miles away and completely uneventful :good:
Now to figure out how to lock the steering. I wanted to back it down the driveway but discovered it ain’t so easy to back something up when the front wheels don’t want to cooperate ! :negative:
“My guess is the cable is attached to the hydraulic cylinder.” Bob, I’m thinking you’re right. That 3 foot long cylinder? It’s more like at least 6. As soon as I get it home (tomorrow I hope) I’ll start looking for tags I can take pictures of and send them to John Deere to get an idea what year this thing is. The splayed out sides I think I can fix by sleeving the egged out holes in the 4×4 cross braces every 1-1/2 ‘ or so except the back one, that will have to be replaced. The steel runners with the bolts going through down the sides are beat up pretty bad, I can get Newhouse mfg. to make new ones reasonable. I don’t think it’s going to take much to make it look like it’s ready for use as compared to a falling apart POS. One’s a real piece of yard art. the other’s an eyesore. I paid 50 bucks for it, +24 for four oversize bolt together valve stems. Strangely, the left rear rim has the valve stem on the back side, other than that they are identical :unsure:
Hey Tinbender , not to change the subject. But did you ever do your “50 hour ” re-torque on your Jinma ?
Quote Sorry. but life has a way of leaving tread marks on me. 163 hours and counting…
