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Yep. I engaged the PTO today and it seemed to be working, turning. Two seperate clutch plates, I realize. No help available looks like. If I ever get it split and repaired I will likely have to do it myself. Will update this thread if I ever get it done. Thanks. Ever think of increasing upload file size?
I have adjusted the pedal free play to 1 inch and ran the checks for pto clutch which was .30 go .40 nogo all three and did my best to check the main clutch adjustment which is approx 1/16 inch all round.
I am using the attached instructions from KENO tractors in Oregon which called for finger to throwout of 1/16 to 1/8″. Did not adjust any since they meet specs. Since I don’t own a 1/16″ feeler guage I used three blades .024 .025 .026 together which is close to 1/16″ (.075 where 1/16 is .0625) which is a tight fit while adding the next blade to the stack (for .102 near 3/32) is a nogo so I call that in spec.
OTOH not much changed. When the pedal goes down the throwout bearing goes forward, the levers operate and the plates move a bit apart but when pedal up nothing goes to the wheels. I can change the gears from neutral with the tractor on or off if i force it a bit but when running I hear and feel knashing of gears for a second if I shift into gear with the pedal up but it then goes into gear without the wheels moving. I don’t feel much difference with the pedal down all the way.
My thinking is that it is acting like a slush bucket, a slipping clutch that xmits a little rotation to the gear box and yet stops dead when put in gear on the output side. I can see the clutch input (flywheel0 rotating fine so I think that is the only thing physically possible if I have enough gear motion to knash gears. What have I missed here?
My other problem is being in Oklahoma where the tornadoes come roaring down the plan (two miles south of me last night) and I do not see any chinese tractor outlets around. Any idea where a Jinma shop might be near Shawnee Oklahoma? Know a price for replacing a clutch in a 200? Thank you for bearing with me on this, really.
Thanks for confirming that Piper, I will get that replaced right away. Probably why the original starter had a shorted solenoid.
Thanks. I checked the roll pin, ok. Watching the plates as I press the clutch I see a very small movement apart at the bottom of the pedal but only a mm or two maybe. The PTO is running if engaged, btw. If I were working on one of my aircooled vws I would be thinking the main drive clutch is worn plumb out but I don’t hear any scraping noise. OTOH my hearing ain’t that great anymore. Any thing else I can check to isolate the problem? Oh, the clutch pedal has zero free play, is that normal?
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