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Hello,
It sounds like you have verified that if you turn one front wheel the other turns
I assume by hand?
If you believe that the front axle is okay the next most probable cause id the fron drive shaft.
The front drive shaft is not splined on each end. It has grooves with ball bearings (individual balls) that form a sort of U-joint.
It is pretty common for those fail.
So look up instructions for removing the drive shaft and take a look.
Good luck,
Jim
Bob,
If I understand your response you had trouble with diesel and oil co mingling in the injection pump oil sump and the cause was a leak in the lift pump.
The leaking could be caused by a worn o-ring that is part of the lift/primer pump but in your case the pump was damaged by corrosion so you had to replace the lift pump instead of repairing it?
Thanks
Jim B
BlueNoser,
I am not seeing the picture that you posted do you have a link to it?
What is the model# on your pump?
I would start with draining and refilling the oil in the injection pump.Then see how fast it overfills.
I have not had to tear mine apart yet. so I am not sure of the path that the diesel may be taking . If you the to the “nothing to loose point” (have to replace it anyway). Try replacing he oil with a good auto trans seal sweller product. I have had amazing results with some of the berryman Trans sealer. Of course it is best to address the cause of the leak but my 1963 Case 320B Power steering I have been keeping a significant leak at bay for 20 years with that stuff. So while it is not considered a permanent fix sometimes it can do amazing things. I can let the tractor set for 3 months and not have to add a drop. Before adding it it would run out in a couple of days. Good Luck!
Jim B
Bob,
I had a chance to look over the Deutz engine wear study. That is a great paper and it does cover 1 aspect of our discussion.
To your point the Common Rail turbocharged diesels evaluated in this study and not exactly directly comparable to my TY395 NA mechanically injected engine (probably a 30 year old design).
Their primary wear testing was accomplished at maximum output from what I could gather from the article. While it is one standard method of endurance and wear testing, the engine is operating at nominal temperature during the entire test.
That does not well represent the “stop and go” lives of most of these small utility tractors. A nice study on the effect of coolant temperature is covered in chapter 10 of this book and I believe that it better represents normal operating conditions for typical utility tractors than the Deutz study.
Critical Component Wear in Heavy Duty Engines
By P. A. Lakshminarayanan, Nagaraj S. Nayak
This has been a thought provoking discussion. Thanks!
Jim B
Rich is correct in his recommendation to grease until some comes out.
If the joint that you are greasing has seals that can relieve without damaging the seal, part of the function of regular greasing is to clear old grease and debris from the joint and seal.
This is from the Dana Corp. On greasing universal joints.
Important: Properly purging u-joint lubricant during vehicle preventative maintenance service is critical to ensure long service life of the vehicle driveline components. Proper lube purging is evident by fresh grease exiting all four bearing cup seals (white arrows) when grease pressure is applied to the u-joint grease zerk fitting. This procedure will replenish the bearing cups with fresh grease, while pushing contaminants and air pockets out of the u-joint. Failure to properly purge the u-joint can cause premature failure and possible driveshaft exiting from the vehicle.
Cheers
Jim B
Rich,
I really did not describe my observations properly.
The bore will show the most obvious non uniform wear on the front of the front cylinder and the rear of the back cylinder in a given bank.
And these observations are in cylinders with significant bore wear not .001 or .002 but .010″ +.
I have personally worked on a 327 chevy that the ridge in some cylinders that was over .015″.
The excessive wear in that engine was cause by 2 primary factors. No cooling thermostat and overly rich jetting. This combination caused constant cylinder washing and rapid cylinder wear.
I first found the chart of bore wear vs cooling temp in a Teledyne Continental engine manual. The data was likely collected using a non fuel injected gasoline industrial engine due to the publishing date being in the 40's or 50's as I remember. The information caught my interest due to my observations of non uniform wear in real life.
While I doubt that the acceleration of bore wear is as significant in a diesel engine, lightly loaded diesels running cold also have documented tendency to collect fuel droplets on the cylinder walls causing among other things cylinder washing and oil dilution.
I am not a mechanical engineer nor a mechanic. But my nature is to observe and attempt to understand DEVICES that don't work properly. Not people, people are to complicated.
Must get back to re-purposing a 5 foot belly mower into a 3 point mower.
Never enough time to do all of these great projects!!!
Cheers,
jim
Cheers,
Jim
hmmm not my data…. but knowledge is useful
When I disassemble the cylinder head from a high hour engine I can nearly always visually observe this effect and of course you can measure it when you measure the bores. Bore wear will be greater on the side of the cylinder that is on the edge of the block (not sharing cooling water with an adjacent cylinder and thus slower to warm up.
Cheers Jim B
Bob,
I forgot to put this at the top of my previous post. It is my motto and the way I live.
“I Rarely Learn anything When I know What I am Doing”
In today's world we are constantly bombarded with the message that we must consult an “expert” and leave the thinking to someone else.
I just am not wired that way.
I purchase my Jinma in June 0f 2013 as a non runner that the owner had given up on. I winched it on to my flatbed to haul it home and I drove it off of the trailer under its own power. Since I have had it here is a list of some of the things that I have done to it.
Disassemble the engine (in frame) due to massive blue smoke, oil consumption and oil leaks.
Found: Top 2 rings in wrong order and upside down in all 3 cylinders.
Put in new pistons, sleeves and rings. (sleeves and pistons were overkill rings would have done it)
New Con rod bearings
Serviced cylinder head, valves had severe recession so they had to be faced, stem length readjusted and springs shimmed.
Disassembled front axle and replaced broken LH drive axle.
Replaced leaky factory sediment bowel / fuel outlet / shutoff assembly and primary low pressure fuel lines.
Aux relay for glow plugs
Aux relay for starter
Modified and rebuilt the leaking water pump so that I can use off the shelf bearings and seals.
Installed a modified 180 degree Toyota LC thermostat that actually controls the engine temp (always ran cold before due to water bypassing thermostat)
Remove mechanical fan and installed electrics as most of my use is under an hour at a time and I want my engine to run nice and warm. (This minimizes cylinder and ring wear as well as emissions)
Installed a Delco 10SI alternator (not a one wire) I like to use the remote sense line to insure that the batter voltage is properly controlled. The 63 amp Delco supports the electrical demand of the E fans.
Finally, Tweak the FI pump.
All of this work was completed in my shop by myself with liberal help from searching for tidbits on these boards.
At this point I have a great tractor, with a total of about $4K invested that I am becoming pretty familiar with and it currently does not leak oil! We all know that with these tractors that is a temporary situation.
Jim
Bob,
That is a great question!
I would say that I am not a mechanical diesel fuel injection pump expert.
I have used and worked with small diesel engines most of my life and have a good understanding of proper functioning. Mechanical injection systems are fundamentally very simple devices but are built with precision tight clearance parts. This is why we need to be meticulous with keeping the fuel clean and free of water. The fuel wets most of the parts in the pump and they need to be protected from water as it will cause corrosion and grit or particulate matter because it will cause wear.
My performance issue as caused due to the fuel rack movement being over constrained but the spring loaded pin that I adjusted. Fueling is more aggressive at lower RPMs. I do not believe that this will cause any reliability or safety issues with the engine. I am sure that the injection pump manufacturer has a sophisticated test rig that they use to set the calibration of the pump. It is unlikely that I have perfectly reproduced the correct factory setting. But I sure like how my tractor runs.
Have a great day
jim b
Hello again,
We had pretty good weather in the northwest this weekend so I had a chance to put a couple of hours on the 354 with the new setting on the pump.
It is a much nicer running machine. Before the pump adjustment the engine had very little torque below 1500 rpms and the governor was very insensitive allowing the engine to bog down if the load increased.
Now it is responsive right off of idle and pulls great even at 1200. I really prefer using lower revs when filling the FEL bucked with gravel etc as I can feel the load on the machine and react to minimize strain.
So if you have a machine with the TY395E engine that feels as if it's a lean running gas engine at low revs instead of a torquey diesel you might want to look into this adjustment.
Cheers
jim
